Grow it here, do it right: The case for safe, sustainable, local seafood

BY IMANI BLACK AND ANDREW ZIMMERN, OPINION CONTRIBUTORS - 08/13/22
THE VIEWS EXPRESSED BY CONTRIBUTORS ARE THEIR OWN AND NOT THE VIEW OF THE HILL

FILE – A sailfish jumps out of the water. (Getty Images)

It’s August in America, which means that the sound you hear is the sizzling of millions of pounds of delicious salmon, striper, and cod on American grills. August also means it’s hot—and due to climate change, it’s getting hotter. A warming world threatens the very fish we rely on for quintessential American traditions like Midwestern fish fries. But there is a solution right here in our own waters. By leading with science and carefully expanding aquaculture farms into federal waters, America can grow its seafood supply, boost coastal economies, and, yes, ensure summers are always full of seafood. That’s why we’ve launched the Coalition for Sustainable Aquaculture (CSA). 

We’re proud to be founding members of this diverse, groundbreaking coalition. Imani is a former oyster farmer and the founder of Minorities in Aquaculture, an organization that works to expand economic opportunity for minority women by lowering barriers to entry and educating them on the benefits of local and global aquaculture. Andrew is a chef, restaurateur, a United Nations World Food Programme global ambassador, and an award-winning television producer and host who has seen firsthand in over 150 countries the growing consumer demand for safe, locally sourced seafood. 

Now we’re working with our Coalition partners to meet that demand. Together with marine research centers, industry experts, leading environmental organizations, and the most forward-thinking chefs in the country, CSA is charting a path towards a safe and homegrown aquaculture industry that will create sustainable seafood here in America—the right way. That’s why we’re pushing for thoughtful studies and pilot programs so we can close knowledge gaps and learn best practices to build an offshore industry that complements well-managed traditional fisheries—and that’s sustainable from the start. And that’s an economic development plan that also means jobs. 

It’s taken decades of hard work to restore America’s wild-capture fisheries after generations of overfishing and mismanagement. Thanks to congressional action and science-based policies, those fisheries have largely recovered. Now they face a new threat: climate change is warming waters, shifting fish stocks, and putting pressure on fishers and the coastal economies that rely on them. In fact, even with the best fishery management, studies suggest that climate change may greatly harm our seafood supply. 

Lessons from nearshore do offer some hope. Since we started farming oysters and clams in coastal waters, nearshore farmers have grown more seafood while simultaneously reducing pollution and environmental impact. Many of these lessons can be applied to a future offshore industry.  

There are still things we don’t know, and we don’t take the ecological risks of offshore aquaculture lightly. Fish escapes and equipment failures could interfere with wild fish and marine mammal populations, while improper waste management could upset delicate ecosystems. Additionally, we need to make sure aquaculture feed is produced using ingredients that are themselves sustainable. 

We also cannot exclude traditionally marginalized communities from a new and promising industry, especially when offshore aquaculture farms are placed in areas that have been fished for generations by Black, Hispanic, and Native peoples. That’s why, beyond important pilots and studies, CSA is also advocating for aquaculture hubs that can pool resources, expand opportunity, and ensure the industry is built on equity and benefits everyone.     

Sustainable aquaculture will bring in the dough. Coastal economies will have a new, innovative industry protected from the traditional ebbs and flows of wild-capture fish stocks. And what’s more, increased supply could eventually bring down prices for consumers.  

Offshore aquaculture has the potential to make the United States’ food supply more secure and sustainable even as it becomes more climate resilient. If we get it right, aquaculture will even help increase seafood production despite climate change. 

We know the stakes. Now, we need the legislation. CSA stands ready to unite behind policies that put science first and prioritize inclusivity in the aquaculture industry. Ideal legislation will encourage industry leaders to innovate while they close knowledge gaps and learn what it will take to make offshore aquaculture truly sustainable. 

When we succeed, we’ll have more seafood that consumers want, and chefs are proud to prepare—and more Augusts full of the delicious sizzling sounds we should be able to count on when we sit down to our tables. 

Imani Black is founder of Minorities in Aquaculture and Andrew Zimmern is an Emmy-award winning chef.