City that could have been: Untold story of Russia’s Vologda

If fate had played out differently, Russian city of Vologda might have been crowned capital of Russia

Elena Teslova |17.09.2024 - TRT/AA



MOSCOW

Far in the northwest of Russia lies Vologda, a city nestled in one of the country’s most authentically Russian regions and known for its developed industries and beautiful nature.

If fate had turned out differently, it might have been crowned the capital of Russia.

Vologda is as old as Moscow itself, with both cities born in 1147, according to ancient manuscripts. Throughout the turbulent centuries, as foreign invaders swept across the land, Vologda's geographical embrace shielded it from destruction.

By the 16th century, it had blossomed into one of the most vital hubs for Russia’s trade with England, Holland and other Western lands. In 1555, the British, drawn by its promise, opened their trading office in Vologda, and the first Russian ambassador to England, Osip Nepea, hailed from this storied city.

But the winds of history took a dramatic turn in 1564. Ivan IV, known as Ivan the Terrible, found himself beleaguered by both foreign invasions and the threat of rebellion. With turmoil brewing in Moscow, the tsar sought refuge in Vologda. Accompanied by his family, the royal treasury, priceless icons and symbols of power, he made his way to this northern city with dreams of forging a new capital.

Vologda, strategically positioned at the gateway of the Northern Sea Route, held immense promise. Its coat of arms, adorned with an open gate, symbolized an invitation to Europe, a pathway to the world beyond. The tsar envisioned fleets sailing from its shores, and in moments of peril, he imagined Vologda as a safe haven from which he could retreat.

"Without hesitation, Ivan IV set his grand plans into motion. He commanded the construction of a magnificent cathedral and a mighty kremlin, a fortress to rival even Moscow's Kremlin. Noble families, drawn by the tsar's vision, began to buy land and build their lives in Vologda's embrace," Larisa Gulneva, head of the Excursion and Educational Department of the Vologda Museum, said in an interview with Anadolu.

In the tsar’s grand design, the new fortress was to be twice the size of the Moscow Kremlin, which today stands as the largest active fortress in Europe. Vologda also became the spiritual heart of a new diocese, elevating the city to a place of religious significance, she said.

"Yet, as fate would have it, destiny had other plans. In 1571, as Ivan IV personally oversaw the construction of the grand Saint Sophia Cathedral, a mysterious omen appeared. A brick, or perhaps a piece of plaster, fell from the cathedral and struck the tsar. According to the chronicler Ivan Slobodsky, the tsar interpreted this as a sign — a rejection by the very ground on which he stood," she noted.

In Russian folklore, such signs were powerful, Gulneva emphasized, adding: "Holy places were believed to possess great spiritual energy, and for one to be rejected by such a place was an ill omen indeed, fraught with dire consequences. Whether it was superstition, paranoia or a deep-seated fear that drove him, Ivan IV decided that Vologda was not meant to be his capital. Mounting his horse, he left the city, never to return."

But Vologda’s story did not end there. The city thrived, bolstered by the tsar’s investment and vision, she said.

"In 1918, following the Great Russian Revolution, Vologda briefly became the "diplomatic capital of Russia," hosting embassies, consulates and missions as diplomats sought refuge from the advancing German troops. Though the diplomats eventually left, Vologda’s legacy remained," she added.

Today, the Vologda region is a beacon of prosperity, with thriving industries, rich agriculture and historic treasures. Its educational and sports centers are strong, and its people, the region's greatest asset, continue to shape its future.

According to the Russian Federal State Statistics Service, Vologda stands as the most mono-national city in Russia. Over 96% of its residents are Russian, their features reflecting the global image of the Russian people—blonde hair, blue eyes and freckled faces.

The region's nature is also quintessentially Russian, painted in soft hues of green, white, blue and violet, a serene palette that soothes the soul.

Vologda may not have claimed the title of Russia's capital, but its spirit remains indomitable. Its story is one of resilience and quiet strength, where the past and present weave together to create a city like no other. As head of the region Georgy Filimonov declares, Vologda’s success is a testament to its people — the true treasure of this northern land.