Distilling experts warn people to be on guard for counterfeit and illicit alcohol at home and abroad
Heriot-Watt University
Experts from a renowned international brewing and distilling centre are warning people to watch out for counterfeit and illicit alcohol - spirits - whether they’re travelling abroad over the festive season or celebrating at home.
Academics from Heriot-Watt University’s International Centre for Brewing and Distilling (ICBD), have warned people to not be complacent about the risks of counterfeit and illicit alcohol. It is not just a problem in far away countries; lots of alcohol sold in the UK is also counterfeit.
The warning comes following recent cases in Istanbul, where toxic alcohol-related deaths have reached 37, amidst a major crackdown on bootleg alcohol by the Turkish authorities on illegal producers.
Over the past few months there have also been fatalities and serious illness, due to contaminated alcohol in Laos and Fiji.
Only a problem abroad?
In the US, EU, UK there is a relatively low rate of counterfeit spirits – low but not zero. But the bottles that are being sold outside of normal channels such as shops and off licenses, certainly should be treated with caution.
Counterfeit spirits are emphatically not only a problem affecting tourists in ‘far-flung’ destinations. Counterfeit spirits, accounting for 25-40% of consumption in some areas, cost the EU €3 billion annually.
As recently as September, warnings were issued in Jersey after the authorities discovered a batch of counterfeit vodka - imitating a popular Scottish brand - contaminated with chemicals dangerous to human health.
And several years ago, researchers found that 33% of tested old and rare Scotch whisky was found to be fake [note 2].
Tell tale signs
The ICBD academics are urging people to take care and always follow the advice given by the Food Standard Agency, namely to monitor the 4 P’s: the product (is it an unknown brand?); the price (is it too good to be true?); the package (is the bottle properly sealed or does the label look suspect in some way?) and finally the place of purchase (is it a normal shop?).
Speaking about the warning, Michael Bryan, a Post Graduate Researcher at The International Centre for Brewing & Distilling in HWU’s School of Engineering & Physical Sciences (who is developing a global database - see below) said:
“Alarm bells should ring if a deal seems too good to be true. Ask yourself: is the shop an authentic one or is it potentially dodgy? Is the price you’d expect to pay? Is there any evidence of tampering with the closure? Does the label and barcode look authentic?”
The cost of not being vigilant
Michael knows to his personal cost, the dangers of not being vigilant. He said:
“I personally have been drugged and robbed from material put into spirits, so I know how easy it is. In my case, a bar worker offered a free drink of something I would never consume generally – very out of the ordinary – but in the moment it seemed ok, but was not. As we travel to exciting and far-flung places, it pays to be extra vigilant.
”I would like to say this is not a ‘first world’ problem but that is not the case. The point is, counterfeit and illicit alcohol is everywhere, however - thankfully - the chances of truly poisonous spirits is much less in the first world because we have more rigorous supply chain control.
“Nevertheless, we should always be on guard. If something does not taste right or smell right or is priced right, be suspicious. Look online to see if there is a recall, or just return the item you’ve bought, to the shop - as defective.
“And definitely never buy alcohol ‘under the counter’ or from the boot of someone’s car! Always buy from a reputable supermarket or off-licence.”
Database of chemical fingerprints of authentic spirits being built
Along with colleagues in the ICBD - and working with Process NMR Associates in the USA - Michael Bryan is leading a project to build a database to test, compare and log alcoholic spirits.
The team have spent the last 12 months using lab-based analytical techniques to detect the chemical fingerprint of hundreds of authentic, international spirits including whisky, tequila, mezcal, and bourbon.
They’ve used advanced analytical tools, including near infrared spectroscopy (NIR), ultra-violet visible (UV-Vis) spectroscopy, liquid chromatography (HPLC-DAD), and nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (NMR) to create the chemical fingerprints.
This approach aims to replace costly, bulky equipment with comparative mathematics, enabling faster, cheaper authenticity tests without opening bottles.
The database could curb counterfeit trade, protecting consumers and manufacturers alike.
Professor Annie Hill from Heriot-Watt University is the academic supervisor for the database project. She said:
“Our continuing research aims to further increase awareness and to develop accessible and affordable methods to enable wider detection and identification of illicit distilled spirit products.”
Chemistry: Algorithm can sniff out whisky’s strongest notes and origin
Springer
Two machine learning algorithms can determine whether a whisky is of American or Scotch origin and identify its strongest aromas, according to research published in Communications Chemistry. The results also suggest that the algorithms can outperform human experts at assessing a whisky’s strongest aromas.
A whisky’s aroma is determined by a complex mixture of odorous compounds. This makes it highly challenging to assess or predict a whisky’s aroma characteristics, or notes, based solely on its molecular composition. Panels of human experts are often used to identify the strongest notes of a whisky, but these require a significant investment in time, money, and training, and agreement between participants is often limited.
Andreas Grasskamp and colleagues assessed the molecular composition of seven American and nine Scotch whiskies using two algorithms — OWSum, a molecular odour prediction algorithm developed by the authors, and a neural network. The molecular composition data was derived from existing results from gas chromatography and mass spectrometry analysis — two techniques used to separate and identify components within a mixture. The algorithms were used to identify each whisky’s country of origin and its five strongest notes. The authors then compared the algorithms’ results to those from a panel of 11 experts.
OWSum was able to determine whether a whisky was American or Scotch with a greater than 90% accuracy. Detection of the compounds menthol and citronellol was most closely associated with an American classification, while detection of methyl decanoate and heptanoic acid was most closely associated with a classification as Scotch. OWSum identified caramel-like as the most characteristic note of American whiskies, and apple-like, solvent-like, and phenolic (often described as a smoky or medicinal smell) as the most characteristic notes of Scotch whiskies. Finally, both algorithms were able to identify the five strongest notes of a specific whisky more accurately and consistently on average than any individual human expert.
The authors believe that their approach could lead to quick algorithmic classification of whiskies and identification of the key notes in their aromas.
Journal
Communications Chemistry
Method of Research
Experimental study
Subject of Research
Not applicable
Article Title
Odor prediction of whiskies based on their molecular composition
Article Publication Date
19-Dec-2024
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