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Monday, June 05, 2023

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Pacific Deep-Sea Mining Hotspot Contains a Wealth of Biodiversity

Scientists find more than 5,000 unknown species in a zone slated for exploitation.

KAREN MCVEIGH
MOTHER JONES

MAY 27,2023

An anemone spotted in the CCZ.Smartex Project/NERC

This story was originally published by the Guardian and is reproduced here as part of the Climate Desk collaboration.

Scientists have discovered more than 5,000 new species living on the seabed in an untouched area of the Pacific Ocean that has been identified as a future hotspot for deep-sea mining, according to a review of the environmental surveys done in the area.

It is the first time the previously unknown biodiversity of the Clarion-Clipperton Zone (CCZ), a mineral-rich area of the ocean floor that spans 1.7 million square miles between Hawaii and Mexico in the Pacific, has been comprehensively documented. The research will be critical to assessing the risk of extinction of the species, given contracts for deep-sea mining in the near-pristine area appear imminent.

Most of the animals identified by researchers exploring the zone are new to science, and almost all are unique to the region: only six, including a carnivorous sponge and a sea cucumber, have been seen elsewhere.

Contracts for mining exploration in the CCZ have been granted to 17 deep-sea mining contractors in an area covering 745,000 square miles. The companies, backed by countries including the UK, US, and China, want to exploit minerals including cobalt, manganese and nickel, in part to sell to the alternative energy sector.

In July the International Seabed Authority, a quasi-UN body based in Jamaica that regulates deep-sea mining, will begin accepting exploitation applications from these companies.

To better understand the impact of mining this fragile ecosystem and its newly discovered inhabitants, an international team of scientists has built the first “CCZ checklist” by compiling all the records from expeditions to the region. Published in the journal Current Biology, it includes 5,578 different species, of which an estimated 88 percent to 92 percent had never before been seen.

“We share this planet with all this amazing biodiversity and we have a responsibility to understand it and protect it,” said Muriel Rabone, the paper’s lead author, a deep-sea ecologist at the Natural History Museum (NHM).

Psychropotes longicauda, a.k.a. the “gummy squirrel,” was among thousands of newly discovered creatures living in the depths of the Pacific Ocean.
Smartex Project/NERC

To study and collect specimens from the ocean floor, biologists have joined research cruises in the Pacific that send remote-controlled vehicles to traverse the seabed 4,000 to 6,000 meters below.

Dr Adrian Glover, a deep-sea biologist at the NHM and senior author of the study, who has taken part in several expeditions to the CCZ, most recently on the UK’s Smartex expedition, described it as an “incredible privilege.” The expedition, funded through the Natural Environment Research Council and others, is backed by UK Seabed Resources (UKSR), a deep-sea mining company that operates the UK’s exploration area.

The NHM has previously worked with UKSR and Deep Green, now the Metals Company, another mining firm, as a contractor in the area to provide baseline biodiversity data. It insists all data gathered is open-access in peer-reviewed literature.

The scientists watch operations by video link direct from the boat, as new species are gathered by remote operating vehicles in the darkness below. The seabed, Glover said, is an “amazing place” where, despite the extreme cold and dark, life thrives. “One of the characteristics of the abyssal plane is the lack of food, but life has a way of persisting down there,” he said. “It’s a mystery.”

A sea star collected from the CCZ.
Leon Neal/Getty

One of the deep-sea animals discovered was nicknamed the “gummy squirrel”, because of its huge tail and jelly-like appearance, he said. There are also glass sponges, some of which look like vases. The most common categories of creatures in the CCZ are arthropods, worms, members of the spider family and echinoderms, which include spiny invertebrates such as sea urchins and sponges.

With approval for deep-sea mining looming, Glover said he believed it was “imperative that we work with the companies looking to mine these resources to ensure any such activity is done in a way that limits its impact upon the natural world”.

Asked about other scientists, including Sir David Attenborough, calling for a moratorium on deep-sea mining because of the irreversible damage they say it will do to ecosystems, Glover said he believed his role was to inform.

“Our role as scientists is not to decide if it can go ahead—it is to provide the data,” he said. “Everyone who lives on this planet should be concerned about using it in a sustainable way. There is a big discussion on the horizon and it is incredibly important to engage the public to find out what path people want to pursue. You have regulators, the governments and the public, who will listen and read the information, the pros and cons.

“In some ways I see it as very positive that we can come up with a regulatory structure before mining takes place. [In] other large industries, such as oil and gas, the regulations came later.”

Another look at the creature scientists nicknamed “the gummy squirrel.”
NOAA Office of Ocean Exploration and Research

US says Mexico failed to stop illegal wildlife trade threatening vaquita

Reuters

May 26, 2023

A mother and calf vaquita, a critically endangered small tropical porpoise native to Mexico's Gulf of California, surface in the waters off San Felipe, Mexico in this handout picture

Paula Olson/NOAA Fisheries/Handout via REUTERS/File Photo

MEXICO CITY, May 26 (Reuters) - The U.S. interior secretary on Friday declared that Mexico has failed to halt the illegal wildlife trade threatening the world's smallest porpoise, the critically endangered vaquita, a move that opens the path for a possible trade embargo.

The vaquita, native to Mexico's Gulf of California, is imperiled by black market fishing for an endangered fish called the totoaba, whose bladder is highly valued in Asia for use in traditional medicine. Mexico's government has been under pressure to crack down on this illicit fishing.

"The government of Mexico has failed to stem the illegal harvest and commercial export of totoaba," U.S. Interior Secretary Deb Haaland wrote in a notification letter to the U.S. Congress. "This illicit trade has direct negative impacts on the survival of the vaquita."

Under U.S. law, the president may embargo wildlife products and limit other imports from nations deemed by the interior secretary to engage in trade that undermines the effectiveness of any international treaty protecting endangered species to which the United States is a party.

Haaland's letter did not mention a possible trade embargo. Under U.S. law, the president must notify Congress within 60 days of any action aimed to encourage conservation.

Mexico's government did not immediately respond to a request for comment. On Thursday, the government said "immediate work" was being done on an action plan to protect the vaquita.

The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) in March said Mexico had failed to deliver an appropriate plan to protect its the totoaba.

Fishing for the totoaba has brought the vaquita to the brink of extinction because the marine mammals can get tangled in nets cast by illegal fishers.

Sarah Uhlemann, international program director at the non-profit U.S.-based Center for Biological Diversity, said trade sanctions are crucial because without strong and immediate international pressure the vaquita could be lost forever. The United States imported about $798 million of fishery products from Mexico last year, the group said.

Reporting by Carolina Pulice; Editing by Will Dunham and Sarah Morland

Extinct “Hotspot” Volcanoes Spill Secrets on Inner Workings of Volcanoes

By THE UNIVERSITY OF QUEENSLAND MAY 27, 2023

Sawn Rock – Nandewar Volcanic Range, NSW, one of the studied volcanoes from the east Australian volcanic chain. Credit: Dr. Tracey Crossingham

Remnants of volcanoes strewn across Australia act as a map of the northward movement of the continent over an underlying “hotspot” within the Earth’s interior over the past 35 million years.

Dr. Tamini Tapu, Associate Professor Teresa Ubide, and Professor Paulo Vasconcelos, researchers from the University of Queensland, have unveiled that these remnants provide insights into the intricate internal structure of the Australian volcanoes, which progressively evolved as the magma production from the hotspot reduced.

Dr. Al-Tamini Tapu, whose Ph.D. project at UQ’s School of Earth and Environmental Sciences formed the basis of this study, said the hotspot was incredibly strong in its early stages, generating some of eastern Australia’s most beloved natural attractions.

“These large volcanoes were active for up to seven million years,” Dr. Tapu said.

“The volcanoes formed as the continent moved over a stationary hotspot inside the planet, melting the land above it so magma could ooze upward.

“This left a treasure trove of volcanic landmarks in its wake, forming the longest chain of continental ‘hotspot’ volcanoes on Earth –along Australia’s eastern side.

“As you cast your eye along this massive chain, you’ll find Queensland volcanoes such as the Glass House Mountains and Tweed Volcano, which are ‘shield volcanoes’ visited by countless locals and tourists every year.”

Microscopic image of frozen lavas from an east Australian volcano (Nandewar, NSW). Actual image width 25mm. Little crystals transported by magmas unlock eruption histories of the east Australian giant volcanic chain. Credit: Dr. Al-Tamini Tapu

Enormous, long-lived lava outpourings in the Tweed volcano may have weakened the hotspot and caused the younger volcanoes to the south to become smaller and shorter-lived

“This indicates the changes caused as the continent shifted over the weakening hotspot,” Dr. Tapu said.

A shield volcano is a type of volcano named for its low profile, resembling a warrior’s shield lying on the ground. It is formed by the eruption of highly fluid lava, which travels further than the thicker lava erupted from other types of volcanoes. This results in a broad, gently sloping cone with a wide base and a nearly flat or dome-shaped surface. Famous examples of shield volcanoes include Mauna Loa and Kilauea in Hawaii. These volcanoes are not usually associated with the violent eruptions seen in other types, instead often experiencing effusive eruptions where lava flows steadily out of the volcano.

Associate Professor Teresa Ubide said that, as the magma production waned, the volcanoes became internally more complicated, erupting lavas full of complex crystals.

“These little heroes hold the secrets of how the volcano works inside and tell us that the late Australian volcanoes were full of magma pockets, or reservoirs,” Dr. Ubide said.

“As these cooled down and became more viscous, it became more difficult to generate eruptions, which may have been more explosive.

“We found that the arrival of new, hotter, and gas-rich magma acts like a shaken bottle of fizzy drink, causing a build-up of pressure in the magma, and, eventually, an eruption.”

Dr. Ubide said Australia’s extinct ‘hotspot volcanoes’ provide a unique laboratory for researchers to investigate processes leading to volcanic eruptions across the globe.

“The effect of erosion over tens of millions of years allows us to access complete sequences of lava that can be difficult to access in more recent volcanoes,” she said.

“It then makes it possible to reconstruct the inner structure of the volcanoes, sort of like opening a doll’s house, which gives us a much better understanding of hotspot activity globally.

“This is particularly important, given there are many active hotspots on Earth, including in the Pacific and Atlantic oceans, and in other continents, such as the United States’ Yellowstone volcano.

“Volcanoes in these areas produce large volumes of lava and have an important role in the evolution of our planet and atmosphere – so having a real-world ‘doll’s house’ to play around in and observe variations with time and magma supply is very helpful.

“Our study shows the fundamental role of the strength of heat anomalies inside the Earth in the evolution of our planet and its landscape over millions of years.

“Reconstruction of these extinct volcanoes can help to better understand active continental hotspot volcanoes globally.”

Reference: “Increasing complexity in magmatic architecture of volcanoes along a waning hotspot” by A. T. Tapu, T. Ubide and P. M. Vasconcelos, 23 March 2023, Nature Geoscience.
DOI: 10.1038/s41561-023-01156-9

Animal advocates call for alternatives to coyotes, foxes in Ontario dog training areas

Katherine DeClerq
CTV News Toronto Multi-Platform Writer
Published May 27, 2023

Advocates are hoping the Ontario government will consider alternatives to using wildlife—such as foxes, rabbits and coyotes— in off-leash dog enclosures for the purpose of tracking as officials push forward with a proposal to expand training areas in the province.

Public commentary has now closed on a regulation that will see licences issued to operators of fenced-in train and trial areas, where sport dogs can learn to track wildlife.

If passed, the government will set a one-time 90-day window in which new applicants can submit their request for a licence. Operators may also transfer licences to others, something not previously allowed.
MORE: Your dog could soon be allowed to hunt coyotes in controlled settings

It’s a proposal that hunting groups support but animal advocates have called cruel.

Liz White, director of Animal Alliance of Canada and leader of the Animal Protection Party of Canada, told CTV News Toronto there was a reason why licencing was halted by the Progressive Conservative Mike Harris government about two decades ago. As it stands, there are 24 licenced train and trial areas in Ontario.

There used to be between 50 and 60 facilities prior to the change.

“I think there's a general recognition, even back in 1997, that this kind of activity was just cruel and really indefensible,” White said. “That worked well until, you know, we have the Ford government here who, I would argue, has waged war on wildlife.”

Under the law, operators of these enclosures need to ensure certain standards of care for wildlife, and adhere to “minimum standards for facility size and areas of wildlife refuge.” This includes bushed areas and escape routes or culverts where animals can hide from the dogs within.

They must also provide the animals with adequate food, clean water and medical attention.

“The reason that training and training areas are important is because they help to create well-trained dogs to go after legal game, in legal and fair chase environments,” Kirsten Snoek, wildlife biologist with the Ontario Federation of Anglers and Hunters, told CTV News Toronto.

“It's not endorsing abuse of life of any kind, but rather a means to create responsible dogs and hunters in the in their pursuit of various legal and ethical hunting activities and sporting competitions.”

Snoek said that at no time are dogs encouraged to attack or harm the wildlife. Firearms are also not allowed within the enclosures. Download our app to get local alerts on your device
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However, White says she has seen videos and photographs of dogs who are cornering, and then injuring, coyotes.

“If the coyote is cornered in a place where they can't get into the culvert, then they are often set upon by dogs. And unless there's some kind of intervention by the people who are training these dogs, the dogs will are very likely to kill the coyote.”

White says that if owners want to train their dogs to track scents, there is a way of doing so that eliminates the need for real wildlife in the enclosures.

“You can have the compound. You have what you call a drag that has a scent of whatever animal you want on it… a person drags that around the compound in whatever manner they want the dog to trail,” she said.

“Why the government will not consider that option is beyond me.”

Snoek, who is adamant there is no interaction between the dogs and the wildlife in these training areas, said that idea is something that “could be looked into,” although she questioned how the operators would get the scent.

“These areas are huge, like they're hectares in size,” she emphasized. “They've got all kinds of cover and escape routes that, honestly, the interactions I have seen are just extremely minimal.”

There are strict minimum size guidelines for train and trial areas. Those that use coyotes must be licensed for an enclosure that is at least 80 hectares—or the size of about 200 football fields.

For foxes the minimum size is at least 32 hectares and for hares or cottontails, the area has to be at least four hectares.

The government also restricts the kind of sport dog breeds that can participate. Snoek added trainers also wouldn’t want to put their dogs at risk by encouraging them to do more than track within the enclosure.

A coyote walks through Coronation Park in Toronto on Wednesday, Nov. 3, 2021. Following a string of unprovoked coyote attacks on humans in Burlington, Ont., in recent weeks, experts agree that the animals' aggressive behaviour is more than likely the result of humans intentionally feeding them.

THE CANADIAN PRESS/Evan Buhler

The Minister of Natural Resources and Forestry would not discuss the feedback he has received on the proposal, with a spokesperson saying “all comments received during the public commenting period will be considered before a decision is made.”

The regulation in question is part of a piece of legislation expected to soon pass its third reading at Queen’s Park.

Green Party Leader Mike Schreiner said he was he was confused as to why something like this was a priority for the Ford government.

“I mean, to take wildlife and cage them up and then have dogs go after them, just seems inhumane,” he said. “This, to me, came out of nowhere.”

“I think there's definitely going to be blowback,” Schreiner said.

Snoek said that while there is demand for more train and trial areas, she doesn’t anticipate “a huge overload” of people applying for licencing, especially considering the 90-day deadline.

“It's not a very quick thing to start up and running this type of business,” she said.

School hails clean, sustainable heating

Elijah Smith Elementary School has been equipped with a new biomass heating system.

BIOMASS MAY BE CLEAN BUT NOT GREEN

By Whitehorse Star on May 26, 2023

Elijah Smith Elementary School has been equipped with a new biomass heating system.

It builds on the Yukon government’s commitment to support a strong and sustainable future for generations to come, the government said Wednesday.

Biomass is a clean, renewable energy source that reduces fossil fuel use and greenhouse gas emissions. Heat is created by burning organic matter like wood.

The system is forecast to reduce the school’s reliance on propane and lower its greenhouse emissions by approximately 180 tonnes annually.

The venture contributes to action H17 and meeting goal area 2 of Our Clean Future, the government’s strategy for addressing climate change, building a green economy, and ensuring Yukoners can access reliable, affordable, and renewable energy.

Action H17 directs the Department of Highways and Public Works to “install renewable heat sources such as biomass energy in Government of Yukon buildings.”

Goal area 2 involves “undertaking energy efficiency retrofits and installing renewable heating systems to reduce greenhouse gas emissions from Government of Yukon buildings.”

The system’s construction contractor has taken on the additional responsibility of operating and maintaining the system, through a “build-maintain-operate” model.

This approach was developed through consultation with local industry. It’s planned to create economic benefits by providing local operators with additional opportunities to support and service public infrastructure.

Using systems like biomass reduces the need for non-renewable heating fuels, further contributing to a clean, green and sustainable future for the territory.

“Our government is committed to reducing our carbon footprint,” said Highways and Public Works Minister Nils Clarke, who took part in a media tour of the system on Wednesday afternoon.

“Through projects like the Elijah Smith Elementary School biomass system, we are taking concrete action to achieve our emissions-reduction goals and supporting a strong, sustainable environment for future generations.”

His department engaged with biomass contractors in July 2021 to discuss plans for the Elijah Smith School biomass project and to listen to their suggestions and feedback.

The contract was awarded to Budget Plumbing and Heating in the fall of 2021. The total value of the construction work is $2.3 million.

“It is inspiring to see the integration of clean energy systems into our public buildings,” said Energy, Mines and Resources Minister John Streicker.

“The presence of a biomass heating system at the Elijah Smith Elementary School in Whitehorse is a testament to the exciting progress we are making towards a sustainable future.

“Biomass offers a strong solution, harnessing local renewable resources to provide heat while significantly reducing greenhouse gas emissions.”

Fashion’s Greenwashing Problem: How Canadian shoppers might be misled by eco claims

By Megan Robinson Global News
Published May 27, 2023

LONG READ

The New Reality: Fashion greenwashing: What’s in your closet?

If you’ve been shopping in a mall or online for clothing recently, you may have noticed a trend. There’s an increase in fashion that promises it’s more sustainable.

Fashion and its complicated supply chain significantly impact the planet. More consumers are demanding environmentally friendly clothing. Companies are responding with new options.

These new lines are marketed with words like “natural,” “recycled,” “vegan” or “eco-conscious.” While some of these claims are true and there are companies that are doing the right thing, experts say there are others that are not. It’s tough for consumers to tell the difference.

“The word ‘sustainable’ is such a confusing term because it can mean so many different things,” says Kelly Drennan, the founding executive director of Fashion Takes Action, a Canadian non-profit.

Kelly Drennan is the Founding Executive Director of Fashion Takes Action, a Canadian non-profit. Brent Rose / Global News

For more than 16 years, Drennan has worked to improve the standard of fashion sustainability in Canada. She says she’s seen it all, including companies greenwashing their way into the closets of Canadians.
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“It’s the Wild West really in terms of what claims are being made and what companies are getting away with,” Drennan told Global News’ The New Reality.

“They’re actually misleading the consumer into thinking that those products are made sustainably by using those kinds of words and making the assumption that the consumer does not know any better and doesn’t have the time to actually do the research.”

In a fast-paced society, people move quickly through purchases in-store and online. Verifying the validity of sustainability claims in a complicated industry can take time, and people often end up buying a product because they think they’re doing something better for the planet.

“Like in anything, there are good actors and there are bad actors,” Drennan says.

She explains there are brands “doing it properly” and they have the certifications to back up those claims or they’re being transparent. “They’ll allow you sort of behind the scenes … so that you can actually get in there and see if what they’re saying is legitimate. And then you’ve got the brands that are jumping on the bandwagon and taking advantage of the consumer.”

Blurred customer in a clothing store.

Bim / Getty Images

The fashion industry and its supply chain are some of the most polluting and problematic for the planet. A 2019 Deloitte study showed plastics from textiles make up the third-largest category of plastic waste in Canadian landfills.

“You’ve got the synthetics, the polyester, nylon, acrylic, spandex — that’s plastic. So, when it is in the landfill, it’s never going to biodegrade,” Drennan says.

“We really need to slow down our consumption. We buy too much stuff. We buy 60 per cent more clothes today than we did 20 years ago. We keep our clothes for half as long.”

Some consumers are paying attention. Lyst, a fashion technology company, analyzes shopper behaviour. It found searches for sustainable fashion in Canada rose by 37 per cent in 2020.

The increase in people wanting to shop responsibly, means companies who are truly dedicated to sustainable practices have to figure out how to set themselves apart.

Model Corinne Ng poses for Photographer Andrea Pavlovic wearing pieces from Encircled’s latest collection. Encircled is a female founded, Canadian made clothing brand based in Toronto.

Brent Rose / Global News

On a sunny, spring day in Toronto’s west end Junction neighbourhood, Kristi Soomer and her staff photograph her brand’s latest collection in its bright, airy studio.

Soomer is the founder and CEO of Encircled, which describes itself as a “sustainable clothing brand dedicated to ethical clothing that is comfortable, travel-friendly and made in Canada.”

She started the company in 2012 in response to her frustration with an overflowing suitcase while packing for a work trip in a previous role. She wanted fewer, quality items.

Four years after launching Encircled, Soomer wanted to set the brand apart from others making sustainability claims.

She applied to B Corporation for a private certification. It examines if a business is meeting standards in social and environmental performance as well as providing full transparency. It was an intense, two-year look into every aspect of Encircled, all at Soomer’s expense.

Kristi Soomer is the founder and CEO of Encircled, which describes itself as a ‘sustainable clothing brand dedicated to ethical clothing that is comfortable, travel-friendly and made in Canada.’.

Brent Rose / Global News

“Having that third-party audit was really important to showing that we are actually doing what we’re saying we’re doing,” says Soomer, who recalls seeing more greenwashing emerge in the fashion industry in 2016.

“I was starting to feel a lot more pressure around that, and I could see that sustainability … was becoming a challenge for us to separate ourselves from those that were greenwashing.”

Recently re-certified by B Corp, Encircled is one of a small number of companies with the designation in Canadian apparel. For Soomer, sustainability goes beyond the clothes it makes and sells.

“As a B Corp we’re certified in our bylaws to put people and the planet above profits,” she says.

“So, the paper we’re printing on, the cleaning products we use in our office — every detail around our business model has to be sustainable from how we pay our employees, to how we pay our suppliers, to how we interact with them.”

CRW Design in Toronto is one of Encircled’s local partners to make its product locally. CRW Design works with brands to create, develop, and sew their designs in Canada.

Phil Pang / Global News

Part of the issue with confirming sustainability claims is the complex labyrinth of the fashion supply chain. Tracing fabric, from raw materials to end-of-life disposal is a tall task, something Soomer is constantly learning about.

“When I first started in the fashion industry, I assumed there was just like … a bucket of bad fabrics that you don’t use and … good fabrics that you do use. And in my mind I was like, linen must be over here and polyester is over here. And that’s just the end of it. But it’s actually more of a continuum,” she says.

Fabric considerations are part of Soomer’s work as Encircled is choosing to grow its business locally. It designs in-house, knits half of its fabric in Toronto, and everything is sewn within a 60-kilometre radius of its studio.

Encircled is one of a small number of companies with B Corp certification in Canadian apparel. For founder and CEO Kristi Soomer, sustainability goes beyond the clothes they make and sell. Everything in Encircled’s studio in Toronto neighbourhood, the Junction, is considered.

Brent Rose / Global News

Unlike many fashion and fast fashion brands that have new styles monthly, even weekly, Encircled produces in season, with a short turnaround for production, thanks to its local sewing and dyeing partners. But all these considerations come with a higher price, something Soomer says is the number one question from customers.

“A lot of people will look at sustainable fashion and say it’s more expensive to buy this shirt. And it absolutely is because of our supply chain and because of our labour practices, because of the time it takes to design it and the scale that we have as a brand,” Soomer says.

“It’s this idea that you buy, like, 20 dresses for $10 that you wear once and then you toss them. It’s not sustainable for us as a planet.”

Soomer and the staff at Encircled have an ongoing conversation with its consumer base about sustainability and its practices.

When a shopper purchases an item through Encircled’s online store, the transaction triggers an email with tips on how to best care for the item for longevity. And while price is the number one sticking point for most potential buyers, Soomer says longtime supporters of Encircled are quick to respond on social media posts to explain why it’s worth it to spend more upfront on an item made to last.

“We take customers along this journey of education and then we also share where stuff is made and how it’s made and when they’re purchasing from us, what that means to our community and to us as a brand as well.”

Four years after launching Encircled, Kristi Soomer wanted to set the brand apart from others making sustainability claims. She applied to B Corp for a private certification. It examines if a business is meeting standards in social and environmental performance as well as providing full transparency. It was an intense, two year look into every aspect of Encircled, all at Soomer’s expense.

Brent Rose / Global News

At Fashion Takes Action, education is a key component of Drennan’s work. To date, thousands of companies have enlisted the non-profit’s help.
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“We don’t work with just the industries — people who make and sell clothes — we also work with the people who buy it, wear it, care for it, and eventually dispose of it,” says Drennan. “And if we’re talking about changing a system, you have to work with…every single stakeholder who is a part of that system.”

While deceptive and misleading marketing is illegal in Canada, Drennan wants the government to step up to protect consumers.

“There are some countries where there are more laws in place now, anti-greenwashing laws, transparency laws, which really protect the consumer at the end of the day,” she says.

For now, brands and nonprofits are doing most of the educating within their customer base.

“It’s really the industry’s responsibility,” Drennan says.

“Public access to education and knowing how our products are being made, where they’re being made and what impact they have on people and planet is something that the government really should care more about.”

Bob Kirke is the executive director of the Canadian Apparel Federation, the industry association representing a wide range of clothing and manufacturing companies in Canada.

David de la Harpe / Global News

Bob Kirke is the executive director of the Canadian Apparel Federation, the industry association representing a wide range of clothing and apparel manufacturing companies in Canada.

Kirke sat down with The New Reality in Ottawa to discuss greenwashing in fashion and how consumers are faced with an increasing number of sustainable fashion marketing claims.

Kirke says there are clothing companies making huge efforts to address different parts of the supply chain, taking on a complicated challenge, but other companies can be more transparent with consumers about their practices.

“Whose responsibility is it ultimately? I think companies need to explain themselves rather than just having a tagline or a simple statement, ‘we’re green,’” Kirke says. “What is it? What does it mean for you?”

Kirke says some companies are now “green hushing,” choosing not to publicize sustainability efforts or claims at all, which is in line with the federation’s recommendations to members to be “guarded” in what they say.

“To make those kinds of claims is easy. So that’s why I think a lot of people are sort of pulling back in larger companies in particular because they’re worried about enforcement and they realize how complicated their supply chain is all over the world, multiple factories, multiple suppliers,” he says.
“So essentially, it’s being called green hushing and it is caution, they’re still doing all the [positive] things that they’re doing.”

To tackle green claims overall the European Commission recently proposed a new law to hold companies accountable, including in fashion. The U.K. is also cracking down on fashion greenwashing, launching investigations into large fast fashion companies making sustainability claims.

In Canada, Kirke says the government can provide guidance and clarity to the industry under the laws that already exist, including the Competition Act, the Consumer Packaging and Labelling Act, as well as the Textile Labelling Act.

“We don’t need to change all our laws. We just need to find a way that works for the Competition Bureau and for industry and ultimately for consumers,” Kirke says. “But the one thing I would say is that the Competition Bureau has been reluctant to take that up. They have other priorities, and that’s fine, but I would say it’s going to be helpful.”

Global News reached out to the Competition Bureau to see if it plans to increase enforcement of greenwashing in fashion. The bureau declined an on-camera interview and did not respond to written questions and numerous follow-up requests by our deadline.

Kelly Drennan at Wuxly, a Canadian-made outerwear company based in Toronto also with B Corp certification. It’s one of a small number of companies in Canadian apparel to have the designation. Over 16 years, Drennan has worked with thousands of brands from all aspects of the fashion and clothing industry to discuss advancing sustainability.

Brent Rose / Global News

Until there is an incentive to change, through regulation or enforcement, Drennan believes greenwashing will continue and consumers will potentially be misled.

It’s keeping her busy.

Fashion Takes Action is also reaching people at a young age. It has presented programming, including a course on how to spot greenwashing in fashion, to more than 32,000 school-aged kids.

Drennan says the organization has had success in terms of waking up young people’s minds and curiosities and instilling them with a passion to know more, to buy better and to do better. “At the end of the day, it is probably the most rewarding out of all of the work that we do.”

According to Drennan, the most sustainable item is the one you already have in your closet.

Fashion is sometimes viewed as a superficial or exclusive industry, but ultimately, clothing is unifying and it impacts us all.

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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maquila_Solidarity_Network

Maquila Solidarity Network - Wikipedia

The network is the secretariat of the Ethical Trading Action Group (ETAG) in Canada. ETAG is an advocating coalition of faith, labour, and non-governmental ...

https://www.eldis.org/organisation/A6640

Maquila Solidarity Network (MSN) - Eldis

The Maquila Solidarity Network (MSN) is a Canadian network promoting solidarity with groups in Mexico, Central America, Africa and Asia organising in ...