Consumers face barriers to embracing ethical fashion, psychologist warns
Consumers are likely to continue making poor fashion choices unless eco-friendly choices become more accessible, according to a leading psychologist.
Carolyn Mair says brands must do more to promote sustainable clothing by making it more accessible to all, and by doing more to educate the public about mindful consumption.
Meaningful reforms to the current model of fashion production, in which garments are made from raw materials then discarded, have lagged, says Dr Mair who is also a fashion business consultant.
Making sustainable choices
In Dr Mair’s new book The Psychology of Fashion, she says eco-labels on garments are an important influence on shopping psychology but should be clearer to encourage more people to make responsible purchases.
Dr Mair, a cognitive psychologist and former Professor of Psychology for Fashion at the University of the Arts London, adds that an in-depth comprehension of why consumers make certain fashion choices is crucial for real change. She explains that often people say they support sustainability but may not make sustainable fashion choices, for many reasons including cost.
The Psychology of Fashion uses existing data and psychological theories to highlight how the fashion industry influences the environment as well as wellbeing, body image, and society in general.
Dr Mair explains that while there are many psychological drivers behind our motivation to buy fashion on repeat, buyers can be moved to make more sustainable choices through educational advertising campaigns, and improved accessibility and affordability of eco-friendly fashion.
She says: “Psychology in the context of fashion can lead to an ethical and sustainable industry that becomes a force for good for its workforce, consumers and the planet.
“Understanding the psychology of sustainable behaviour in fashion is essential for developing effective strategies to promote and adopt sustainable practices, both at the individual and organisational levels.
“By addressing psychological barriers and fostering a deeper understanding of sustainable fashion principles, stakeholders can work collectively towards a more sustainable and ethical future for the fashion industry.”
Transforming the fashion industry
The fashion industry has a long history of controversy, with more recent debates focusing on its impact on climate change, especially with low-priced imports from China and cotton from India.
The expert also says more countries should bring in laws to ensure the industry adopts sustainability goals and ethical employment standards. This would include regulations requiring companies to disclose how they are reducing emissions.
Data highlighted in the book predicts the fashion industry globally will release 1.5 gigatonnes of CO2 by 2029. Research also estimates that the ethical fashion market will increase to $10bn by 2025 but Dr Mair points out even some of the ethical choices can still damage the environment – vegan fashion contains harmful chemicals and synthetics.
“Fashion choices not only reflect individual identity and body image but also have significant implications for sustainability. The psychological drive towards fast fashion and ever-changing trends often leads to overconsumption and waste, contributing to environmental degradation,” Prof Mair explains.
“By examining the psychology behind these consumption patterns, the book highlights the need for more mindful and sustainable fashion practices.”
Fashion of the future
This second edition of the book has been thoroughly updated with a new exploration of fashion and social media, including a look at platforms such as TikTok and Instagram.
A new chapter on the future of fashion also highlights the possibilities presented by virtual and augmented reality.
Items worn in virtual ‘spaces’ such as for online gaming, virtual fashion shows or experiences where consumers virtually wear items before they buy them are among examples given by Dr Mair. The author says this trend could lead to people valuing digital ownership of clothing more than physical ownership.
The personalised nature of augmented reality and digital technology could help raise self-esteem and challenge stereotypical notions of beauty.
Technology could also help foster feelings of ethical empowerment among consumers. Designers and manufacturers are already developing fossil-fuel based textiles which use sustainable materials such as pineapple leather and fabrics made of coffee grounds.
AI could also be a force for good by forecasting future trends more accurately, an advance which Prof Mair says could prevent overproduction. However, the downside of AI is excessive energy consumption and the pressure on consumers to keep up with fashion fads.
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How my challenge to stop buying new clothes has gone
Sabrina Lee
BBC Wales Weather Presenter
I started the "no new clothes challenge" 11 months ago
Last New Year’s Eve, I set myself the challenge of not buying any brand new clothes for a whole year.
I did this because I was worried about the link between fast fashion and the environment.
Growing popularity of resale sites including Vinted, which reported over 500 million listings on its site, and Depop (more than 34 million listings) have led me to review my shopping habits.
I realised there are enough clothes already in circulation to sustain us for generations.
Ginger Zee, chief meteorologist at ABC News in New York, inspired me to take on the "no new clothes challenge" and has not bought any new clothes since June 2022.
Ms Zee said: "This combination of the social responsibility of thinking about where our clothing comes from, who touches it, how many places it goes before it gets to us, and the marketing of it has changed so rapidly right under our noses.
"I never want to sound like I want fashion to end, because I think it's really important. But the way we're doing it right now globally for the most part is not good."
She added taking "a beat and a pause" to think about consumption and fashion was important.
I met fellow weather presenter Ginger Zee while studying in 2015
To appear on television I supply my own clothes and I choose what to wear, so there has always been a temptation to freshen up my wardrobe and create new looks.
I was all too familiar with fast fashion and would spend hundreds of pounds on clothes each year.
Over the past 11 months, I have only purchased a small number of items from charity shops, second-hand stores or on resale sites – with the exception of shoes and underwear.
I have developed a love for decluttering – I have made it my mission to donate and sell the items in my wardrobe I no longer need to avoid them ending up in landfill.
I have also learnt new skills. My mum has been teaching me how to sew and it means I have given some of my clothes a new lease of life.
Since I have started this challenge, I have borrowed my mum's clothes - like her skirt from the 1980s - and my auntie has passed on dresses that no longer suit her.
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Clothes swapping events are becoming more popular, particularly among students and young people.
I went to one in Cardiff organised by youth climate and peace ambassadors, where I donated five items and picked up a jacket and a skirt. They also had a catwalk show, modelling clothes they had made and upcycled.
It was really refreshing to speak to such a motivated group of young women, including Menna and Yolay, who understand the importance of supporting sustainable fashion.
Menna said: "I know I have lots of clothes at home that are amazing quality. They're really nice, but I just don't wear them enough. So we thought if we do a clothes swap. It gives new life to clothing items."
Yolay said: "I think a big thing as well is, you don't see a lot of clothes swaps in Wales and I think we definitely wanted to bring one to Cardiff.
"I just think sustainable clothing is the new way forward. It's financially cheaper and it's also more rewarding to be able to say I found this piece and it's sustainable."
Jessica Renault, owner of Déjà Vu in Cardiff, shares tips when it comes to buying and selling pre-loved clothes
I also visited pre-loved boutiques like Déjà Vu in Cardiff.
Owner Jessica Renault, 27, says she thinks there is still quite a way to go when it comes to people’s attitudes and shopping habits with all fashion, but particularly pre-loved items.
"I think it’s about being more considerate, so actually thinking about what you buy before you buy it and not always buying something because it’s on trend," she said.
The most important tip is to focus on the quality of the fabric above the brand and the label, she said.
"If you’re buying things, then the fabric is important because it means you’re going to get more wear out of it.
"From a selling point of view it’s going to be beneficial because when you go to sell it, it’s going to be in better condition so you’re going to get more money for it."
One of the pre-owned outfits I wore on screen this year - when the weather was a bit warmer!
This year I have transformed my relationship with fashion and really learnt how to embrace circular fashion. I know I will never go back to buying everything brand new.
I know I am not able to make much of a difference alone, but I hope I can inspire others to learn more about sustainable fashion.
I would be lying if I said I have not missed a shopping spree and I cannot deny the pressure I feel from social media to keep up with the rest of the world.
But this year has taught me that trends come back around and if you are creative, you can keep up with all the fashionistas of the world – all while looking after the planet.
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