From Baku to Belem

Imaduddin Ahmed

Published December 22, 2024 
DAWN

The writer sits on the Liberal International Climate Justice Committee



MANY climate-vulnerable nations hoped for more at COP29. However, the text leaves an opportunity for Pakistan’s freshest minds to seize on behalf of those who have most to lose from climate change.

The final document reflects the challenges of a multilateral process fraught with competing interests, including within the 60-year-old coalition of 134 developing countries called the G77. The interests of oil-rich and prosperous nations within the Arab Group, for example, do not align with those of climate-vulnerable, developing nations such as Pakistan.

The Arab Group worried that a new formulation of the contributor base for climate finance would explicitly put them on the hook for providing and reporting on support to developing countries alongside traditional developed countries like the US, both because of their capability to provide finance and their attributable greenhouse gas emissions. Six of 10 countries with the highest per capita consumption-based CO emissions belong to the Arab Group. Four of those members have GDPs per capita higher than $30,000; two of them with higher per capita incomes than the UK, France and Japan.

At the technical level, the Arab Group negotiators with oil-producing Bolivia persuaded the G77 to lose a week of negotiation time by not engaging with the text proffered by the UN Secretariat in October. This directly undermined the interests of countries trying to survive the impacts of climate change. This loss in negotiating time meant that no time was spent discussing items in the October text: how much developed countries exclusively would be on the hook for, what proportion of climate finance should be in the form of grant equivalent terms, and what proportion of finance should be allocated to adaptation and loss and damage.


Every government can regulate to reduce default risk from climate impacts.

To prevent this from happening repeatedly, Pakistani diplomats must be alive to when the Arab Group is pushing an agenda that makes no sense for Pakistan or the majority of developed nation allies within the G77, and be ready to push back.

To the quantum: in 2009 at COP15 in Copenhagen, countries set a $100 billion/year climate finance target for developed countries to mobilise for developing countries by 2020. That target was nominally surpassed for the first time in 2022. COP29 in Baku was about deciding what the new number would be. Two key numbers entered the text.

The public-based support goal for developing countries: $300bn/year to developing countries by 2035, without inflation indexing. It is this number that is most important for Pakistan’s resilience to and recovery from future floods, droughts and heatwaves as it does not predicate financing with a promise for profit. The number could represent at best a modest rise to, and at worst, a reduction of the ambition agreed to in 2009, depending on inflation. Moreover, unlike the previous commitment, this was not exclusively to come from developed countries. In theory, Pakistan and all developing countries are now invited to contribute to the core goal.

The investment aspiration into developing countries: $1.3 trillion per year, the number promoted by the Africa Group, reflecting the developing world’s climate finance needs today for adaptation, loss and damage, as well as low-carbon pathways to prosperity. This is a new target that is not yet tracked. Coupled with reference to a “Baku to Belem Roadmap to 1.3T” in the final text that Colombia and Kenya championed, this represents Pakistan’s best hope of receiving the quantum of climate finance it needs, but it requires a market-oriented mindset.

As previously argued, for adaptation and resili­e­nce, every government can regulate to reduce default risk from climate impacts. They can require pension funds and insurance companies to invest in an insurable world by inv­esting into adaptation and resilience to manage disaster, as well as emissions reductions and removals to prevent disaster.

The Baku to Belem Roadmap need not begin from a tabula rasa. The UAE COP28 Global Climate Finance Framework, which has the signature of 15 developed and developing national governments, speaks of the re-channelling of inefficient subsidies and IMF Special Drawing Rights, emissions pricing, and debt-for-climate-swaps and other interventions that can help mobilise the scale of finance required.

The Pakistan government needs to enter the conversation now. We all know our ideal stated positions, but it is time to think practically. Pakistan will need to empower its most agile brains to draw up solutions with those who have shown leadership in this space: Kenya, Colombia, Barbados, France, the UK, Germany, and the troika of COP presidencies.


Published in Dawn, December 22nd, 2024

PAKISTAN

Vulnerable vaccinators

DAWN
Editorial 

December 22, 2024 



THE campaign to eradicate polio from Pakistan cannot succeed unless the safety of vaccinators and security personnel on the front lines of this battle is guaranteed. According to one count, over 200 polio workers and police personnel have been martyred in the field since the 1990s. The latest tragedy occurred only a few days ago when a policeman guarding a polio team in KP’s Karak area was martyred. However, while militant violence forms a major part of the threat confronting polio teams, these vulnerable men and women face other forms of violence and harassment as well. For example, three members of a polio team were attacked in Karachi’s Korangi area on Friday when they approached a home to vaccinate children. A number of women, as well as men, savagely attacked the team with hammers and shovels, while police personnel accompanying the vaccinators were pelted with stones. Meanwhile, two men are being investigated for an earlier incident in which they locked up a female polio worker inside a Nazimabad flat when she arrived to administer vaccines.

For those who attack and harass polio teams, the law must be firm. No violence can be tolerated against these brave individuals who risk their lives in their efforts to eradicate the disease. When people see there is punishment for such violent behaviour, they may think twice before harming vaccinators and police. Along with legal action, the state needs to continue public awareness and community engagement campaigns to ensure refusals reduce. Particularly in urban and rural pockets where vaccine refusals are high, community elders and religious leaders need to amplify the message that all minors must be vaccinated. Pakistan cannot afford to be lax in its approach towards the security of vaccinators and the health of future generations. Therefore, those who harm vaccinators must be punished, while anti-vaccine propaganda needs to be countered with the facts.

Published in Dawn, December 22nd, 2024

The Syrian impact

Muhammad Amir Rana 

December 22, 2024  

DAWN

THE triumph of the Hayat Tahrir al-Sham (HTS)-led resistance in Syria has further disturbed the geopolitical equilibrium in the Middle East and beyond. For Pakistan, this development should mean not only modifications in its diplomatic priorities but also careful evaluation of the country’s internal and regional security dynamics.

Pakistani fighters were not only involved in the conflicts in Iraq and Syria, they were also inspired by various Islamist militant movements, potentially influencing the militant landscape in the country and complicating the security challenge.

The HTS attempts to project a more moderate image to gain acceptance with its neighbours and international actors, including the US. In a recent interview with the BBC, its de facto leader, Ahmed al-Sharaa, stated that Syria is exhausted by war and does not pose a threat to its neighbours or the West. However, a significant challenge for HTS remains managing internal and external jihadists.

Since 2017, HTS has effectively managed its foreign fighter allies. Aware of the challenges posed by foreign fighters, the organisation adopted a strategy of controlling both foreign and local fighters. It crushed certain factions, both local and foreign, while co-opting others, integrating them into its own structures, and renaming their units to obscure their foreign origins.


One cannot afford to disregard the implications of the events in Syria for Pakistan.

Nevertheless, Syria remains home to a diverse range of Islamist and jihadist factions, many of which played key roles in the HTS’ recent offensives. These factions — in case they become dissatisfied with the group’s plan for Syria — may encourage foreign fighters to align with them. But as of now these are assumptions, and the coming weeks will expose the direction of the situation.

One cannot afford to disregard the implications for Pakistan, whose own militant landscape is a complex one and prone to external influences. Changes in militant dynamics and actors from other regions often directly impact Pakistan, and in many instances, these developments reshape the character of militant movements in both Pakistan and Afghanistan. For example, when the Islamic State of Iraq and Syria (ISIS) emerged, it caused fissures within the ranks of the Tehreek-i-Taliban Pakistan, leading to the rise of the Islamic State Khorasan Province (ISKP) and the formation of Jamaatul Ahrar, once a powerful breakaway faction of the TTP. In the same way, the Nusra Front’s formation triggered debates within Taliban and Al Qaeda ranks in Afghanistan, prompting calls for a shift in strategy to make their movements more inclusive and strengthen their political fronts.

The Afghan Taliban regime, along with close ally TTP, has welcomed the events in Syria and congratulated the HTS. However, their rival, the Islamic State, has issued a warning to the HTS. All this could have significant repercussions for us in Pakistan. The presence of Pakistani Shia fighters further complicates the picture, painting a worrisome scenario for the country’s internal security and regional stability.

The Iranian Revolutionary Guard Corps and its Al Quds Force-backed Pakistani Shia militant group Zainebiyoun, which was initially formed to protect the Assad regime, still maintain a presence in Syria. If Iran no longer finds them useful in Syria or elsewhere in the Middle East, these fighters may return to Pakistan, with a sense of defeat. Zainebiyoun already has established roots in Pakistan, particularly in the sectarian conflict-prone region of Kurram. Influenced by developments in the Middle East, this group could absorb returning fighters and exploit existing sectarian tensions in the region and across the country.

It is notable that the Islamic State, which was decimated by a coalition of state and non-state actors, including the Nusra Front, has been fiercely critical of HTS. The irony lies in the fact that HTS leader Abu Mohammed al-Jolani originally split from ISIS nearly a decade ago. Now it accuses HTS of betraying the cause of jihad and collaborating with the enemies of Muslims. Indeed, the ISKP will adopt a similar approach, using this narrative to target HTS’ so-called ally, the Taliban.

The Taliban, TTP, and Al Qaeda share strong bonds, which compel them to support HTS, despite their divergent theological differences and contrasting worldviews. A shared resistance against the Islamic State and its offshoot, ISKP, remains a common factor uniting them. However, while ISKP and Iran-backed Shia proxies, including the Zainebiyoun, share a common enemy, the likelihood of them allying is minimal due to their history of hostility and conflict.

Even if no formal alliance emerges, any violent campaign initiated by the Zainebiyoun against the Taliban or TTP — particularly if the Zainebiyoun clash with Sunni tribes in conflict-ridden Kurram — could significantly complicate border dynamics between Afghanistan and Pakistan. Such developments may further escalate tensions and deepen mistrust between the two states.

Previously, the Taliban and TTP sent fighters to support the anti-Assad resistance. In 2014, the TTP announced the deployment of 120 fighters to join anti-Assad forces in Syria. No doubt, Al Qaeda was the primary actor motivating these deployments. However, HTS has since successfully managed foreign fighters, integrating them into its structures.

An important factor that could influence the Taliban regime is the state structure and system that the HTS-led coalition may introduce in Syria. On the surface, HTS appears more moderate and accommodating towards the West. It also seems to be aware of Syria’s varied social, religious, and political landscape, which suggests it may establish a different system compared to the Taliban model in Afghanistan. The Taliban’s governing system is transitional, deeply conservative, and non-negotiable; it restricts itself to a rigid ideological framework.

After Iran and Afghanistan, Syria is the third Muslim country to come under the control of Islamist forces. However, these Islamist groups differ significantly in their sectarian, political, and ideological priorities. How they will interact with each other and the broader Muslim world remains to be seen. So far, the Taliban have presented a governance model that is widely seen as incompatible with and unacceptable to most Muslim societies.

The writer is a security analyst.

Published in Dawn, December 22nd, 2024

Muslim civilisation and Pakistan

Ashraf Jehangir Qazi 

December 20, 2024

DAWN

The writer is a former ambassador to the US, India and China, and head of UN missions in Iraq and Sudan.

“Indeed Allah would never change a people’s state until they change their own state” — Al Quran.

THE sudden collapse of the Assad regime and the destruction of Syria as a leader of the Axis of Resistance to US-backed Israeli-settler colonialism has surprised and shocked the world. In particular, it has stunned the Arab and Muslim world. Many consider it a much greater tragedy than the Nakba (catastrophe) of the expulsions of the Palestinians from Palestine and the Naksa (setback) of Arab military defeats in wars against Israel.

The latest developments in Syria represent a karitha (calamity) for Syria and the Arab world and a challenge for the entire Muslim world. It would be no exaggeration to say it highlights the failure of contemporary Muslim civilisation. This disaster is of an order no less than that of the Mongol destruction of the Abbasi caliphate in Baghdad in 1258. That calamity destroyed the innate confidence of Muslim civilisation from which it has never quite recovered as its primary concern became the preservation of the faith at the expense of enquiry and innovation. The Prophet (PBUH) had enjoined: seek knowledge even if it be from China. Unfortunately, the doors of ijtihad (independent reasoning) were closed.

Over the succeeding centuries, despite several militarily successful Muslim dynasties and giants of science who fundamentally contributed to Western science, the Muslim world missed out on the agricultural, industrial and technology revolutions. This set the scene for the Western colonisation of the Muslim world. Despite notable exceptions, orthodox Muslim scholars again withdrew into a defensive shell as they had in the wake of the Mongol conquests. They explicitly or implicitly linked up with traditional elites who were largely averse to the prospect of radical social reform and liberating the creative energies of the Muslim masses. Innovation was considered bid’at (novelty) and frowned upon, while taqlid (imitation) was considered virtuous. This was appropriate for the teachings of religion, but its impact extended to intellectual life as a whole.

While railing against colonial masters these traditional elites actively or passively collaborated with them in curtailing the potential of their own peoples. Their suspicious attitude towards rational and scientific enquiry privileged stability and order over intellectual freedom and national development. The word ‘secular’ was erroneously interpreted as a rejection of divine commandments. The sciences, however, are all secular.

Tens of thousands of things need to be done to transform a traditional society and an underdeveloped country.

Progressive intellectuals and movements in the Muslim world have sometimes succeeded in achieving political influence as a result of the festering grievances of the masses. But they were unsuccessful in persuading ruling elites to provide sustained good governance and credible political and educational institutions. The historic betrayal by Muslim ruling elites and the extreme conservatism of the guardians of the faith have culminated in the plight of the Muslim world today.

Pakistan shares this plight. Allama Iqbal asked “pas chi bayad kard? (what is to be done?) This has become a perennial question. It usually elicits a counter question: what can be done? And another more important question: why has it not been done? In seeking answers, another question emerges: do we start from the present or the past? George Santayana answered “those who ignore history are condemned to repeat it”. Indeed! To change the present, we must know the past because it produced the present. Accordingly, Karl Marx asked us to stop discussing the world and start changing it. That brings us back to the question: what is to be done to change it?

Tens of thousands of things need to be done to transform a traditional society and an underdeveloped country. It would be both impossible and irrelevant to try to list all of them. Party political manifestos, that are issued before elections and forgotten afterwards, aim to summarise what needs to be done along with promises to do them. They address the concerns of the electorate usually without any strategy or intent to satisfy them. The whole attempt is to seduce the electorate without offending the bosses. The people are not fooled even if they are largely resigned. The elites and their cohorts remain determined to keep them resigned to their fate.

Eventually, however, a leader may come along who seeks to implement the commitments expressed in his party manifesto and transform it into a practical policy guide rather than a set of false promises. Sooner or later, he unites his status quo-oriented rivals against him with the support of the power structure that seeks to perpetuate itself by being the guardian of the status quo.

This is what has happened in Pakistan. The fate of the country will now depend on the outcome of this struggle between the people and the elite and power establishment. If the leader and his party can develop an organised countrywide movement that inculcates an awareness and confidence among the people, and harnesses their limitless potential, the outcome of the struggle will be inevitable. Such a movement, however, will require an intellectual and political infrastructure to strengthen and deepen its roots among the people. Otherwise, it will run the risk of becoming a political posture rather than an enduring and liberating national reality.

An indispensable leader must, accordingly, aim to make himself dispensable by enabling and empowering his people and country. He transforms a political manifesto from a laundry list on paper into an enabling document. Lee Kuan Yew reportedly remarked at the end of his momentous career “Thank God, my people don’t need me anymore!”

A liberated and developing Pakistan can light a prairie fire of liberation throughout the Muslim world that would foil the designs of hegemonists at every level from the local to the national to the regional to the global. This sounds like a futile and pathetic wish today, and so it is. But other nations have shown that it is possible. The most important of them, China, is a proven friend whose friendship and cooperation can help unleash the potential of Pakistan. Its concerns need to be addressed.

Published in Dawn, December 20th, 2024

Greek tragedy

Aasim Sajjad Akhtar 

December 20, 2024 

DAWN

AMONGST the biggest stories of 2023 was the stranding and eventual capsizing of a boat in the Mediterranean carrying hundreds of people trying to smuggle themselves into Greece. The fated passengers hailed from many countries, but Pakistan’s was the biggest contingent of all — according to official figures, 262 Pakistanis perished in the disaster.

Fast forward 18 months and yet another boat carrying migrant workers has sunk off the Greek coast. This time approximately 40 Pakistanis died. As was the case in 2023, officialdom blamed human smugglers for the latest Greek tragedy and vowed to hunt them down.

But if things carried on as usual after 262 deaths, why would they change after 40 more? This is not about human smugglers. This is about a venal, militarised ruling class that defends its own interests and a wider socioeconomic order that immiserates tens of millions. So long as the dominant nexus of state and capital remains intact, the desperate working masses will continue to put everything on the line to find a way out of this country to chase the promise of a better life.

The swathes seeking to make it to Greece, Italy and other southern European countries are mostly from central Punjab, which by all accounts is Pakistan’s most developed region. Young people from the ‘core’ are now forced to play with death in increasingly similar ways to their peers from the ethnic peripheries. Akbar Notezai has reported time and again on the perilous business of human smuggling from Balochistan into Iran. What is actually reported constitutes but a small proportion of the whole.

More and more workers look to human smuggling rings to get them out.

In case anyone has been living under a rock, Pakistan is an extremely young country. Upwards of 160 million people are below the age of 25 years. Formal estimates suggest that some 2m young people join the labour force annually — the actual figure, after accounting for the so-called informal sector, is probably closer to 4m. White-collar professionals who enjoy generational class privilege are emigrating in unprecedented numbers. The blue-collar majority faces even more dismal prospects of gainful employment and a decent life in an economy that is choking on debt and a regime of ‘development’ based on natural resource grabs and conspicuous consumption.

Once upon a time, the Gulf kingdoms offered a temporary escape route for working-class migrants. Many rural Punjabi and Pakhtun households sent millions to the Gulf from the mid-1970s onwards, and experienced significant social mobility as a result. But that window is also closing now. Saudi Arabia and the UAE now require far less unskilled workers, with already putrid working conditions deteriorating further for the few that do make it.

So more and more workers look to human smuggling rings to get them out. This is not a cheap process; a single migrant can pay up to Rs30 to 40 lakhs before they cross a border. If they make it, they can forfeit months of their meagre incomes to fulfil their monetary obligations to those who got them there. Then they are faced with the lifelong prospect of trying to secure legal residence in societies that are increasingly under the sway of racist and right-wing leaders.

And what about the tens of millions who cannot get out, no matter how hard they try? They are left to try all sorts of precarious work to earn a living. Most beg to be taken in by patrons who treat them like slaves and pass on all the risk of their particular profiteering racket. Human smugg­ling rackets — like all other ra­­­-ckets in this co-untry — are en­­abled by state functionaries. They function because of the wilful complicity of profiteers within the sta­te apparatus, and so all rhetoric about cutting these rackets down to size is just noise.

The crux of the matter is that a state which still lives on fables about ‘national security’ couldn’t care less about the basic needs of the working-class majority. The establishment and its political lackeys watch tragedy after tragedy unfold, almost all of them due to the structural violence over which the ruling class presides. The government then issues meaningless statements and moves on to the next cynical game for power and profit.

This is why young people are increasingly drawn to the fantastical schemes to overturn a decrepit system, convinced that their preferred choice of charismatic leader will wave a magic wand and get rid of all the bad guys. The problem, however, is not selected bad guys, but a bad system that is imploding under its own myriad contradictions. Our youth are being thrown to the fire.

The writer teaches at Quaid-i-Azam University, Islamabad.

Published in Dawn, December 20th, 2024

PAKISTAN

Dreams to despair

Rabiya Javeri Agha 

December 19, 2024

DAWN

The writer is chairperson of the National Commission for Human Rights.

LIKE many developing nations, Pakistan’s economy relies heavily on its migrant workers — individuals who leave home with dreams of a better future, not just for themselves but for their families. In 2023, 860,000 Pakistanis ventured abroad for employment, becoming the lifeline of our economy through their remittances. The sweat and blood of these overseas workers flowed back $30 billion into Pakistan’s economy last year alone.

Pakistan’s migrant population falls into three overlapping groups: regular economic migrants contributing critical remittances, irregular migrants seeking opportunities through informal channels, and detainees abroad — many held for immigration or labour violations. These groups reflect the vulnerabilities of Pakistan’s labour migration system and the need for reform.

Today, 23,456 Pakistanis languish in foreign prisons, primarily in Saudi Arabia, the UAE, Iraq, and other countries. Over 7,800 of them await trial, while the rest serve sentences for infractions like overstaying visas, labour violations, or working without permits.

Behind these numbers are human beings — individuals who lacked the legal awareness, language skills, and support to navigate unfamiliar justice systems, turning their dream of opportunity into a living nightmare.


We owe our migrant workers more than praise; we owe them protection.

The challenges that Pakistan’s migrants face — regular or irregular — are deeply rooted in Pakistan’s flawed labour migration system. The recruitment process, intended to ensure fair employment, remains a minefield of exploitation. While the country’s 2,157 licensed Overseas Employment Promoters operate out of only seven cities, the majority of rural migrants rely on unregulated sub-agents who often deceive them with false promises and illegal ‘azad visas’. Irregular migrants are most vulnerable to exploitation since they often lack formal protections and face harsher penalties when caught.

This is not merely an administrative issue — it is a human rights crisis. Migrants are not just economic contributors; they are citizens whose dignity and safety the state is obligated to protect. Yet our fragmented system has failed to shield them. Weak enforcement of laws, limited pre-departure training, and poor oversight of sub-agents leave migrants unprepared and unsupported when they face foreign legal systems.

The absence of a comprehensive consular protection policy adds to their plight. Diplomatic missions, constrained by limited resources and unclear guidelines, often fail to offer timely assistance. In the 2017 Asma Shafi case, the Lahore High Court directed the formulation of a ‘Uniform Consular Protection Policy’ to ensure legal aid, repatriation, and rehabilitation for detained Pakistanis. Seven years later, progress remains glacial. The Senate Standing Committee on Human Rights, in February 2024, issued a 90-day deadline for finalisation of the policy — a deadline that has now expired, marking a missed opportunity.

To address these systemic gaps, the government must strengthen recruitment mechanisms by ensuring that sub-agents are regulated and by expanding access to licensed Overseas Employment Promoters in the rural areas. Mandatory pre-departure briefings should be implemented to prepare all migrants — regular and irregular — with knowledge of their rights, the risks they may face, and the systems they can turn to in times of crisis.

At the same time, Pakistan’s diplomatic missions must be equipped with the resources and stru­ctured policies ne­­eded to respond ef­­fectively to the ne­­­-eds of overseas wor­kers. The formulation of prison tra-nsfer agreements with countries hosting large numbers of Pakistani detainees can allow these individuals to serve their sentences at home, closer to their families and support systems.

For those facing the death penalty abroad, consular access and immediate legal representation must become a national priority. These are not bureaucratic formalities; they are matters of life and dignity.

Pakistan’s migrant workers are our ambassadors abroad — heroes who sacrifice their comfort to support our nation. Whether they send remittances home, seek better lives through irregular means, or find themselves trapped in foreign legal systems, they are part of our collective responsibility. We owe them more than praise; we owe them protection.

The future of Pakistan’s migrant workforce rests on our ability to act. The world observed International Migrants Day yesterday; let us commit to reforming systems, enforcing laws, and, above all, honouring their sacrifices with action.

Published in Dawn, December 19th, 2024

PAKISTAN

Honouring Jinnah’s legacy on diversity

Shahmeer Asif 

December 21, 2024 

DAWN

Illustration by Gazein Khan

It’s the last month of the year. The chill in the air, combined with the festive vibe, feels magical. The happiness on the faces of youngsters and adults alike, is something only this month seems to bring.

Why is that? Well, the holidays, along with the anticipation of the New Year, certainly play a part. But there’s more. Two significant events also make December special: December 25th holds dual importance for Pakistanis as it marks the birthday of Quaid-i-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah and the globally celebrated festival of Christmas.

On this day, we honour the legacy of the founder of the nation, while the Christian community celebrates the birth of Jesus Christ, Prophet Issa (AS), a symbol of peace, love and hope. This meaningful coincidence delivers a strong message of coexistence, diversity and the shared values that unites us as a nation.

I have witnessed December 25th in a way that I believe few of you might know. I’ve experienced the celebration and the joy of togetherness in both ways — our way and the way Christians do. This is because my best friend is a Christian, he is also my neighbour, and I’ve witnessed their festivities first-hand. We also share our celebrations together. Perhaps it is because of him that I cherish the birth of the father of the nation even more. Let me tell you why.


The feeling that this country is a gift we have after the great struggles and sacrifices of our forefathers, and, of course, the visionary leadership of Jinnah, fills me with immense joy and contentment. How could one be so selfless, to take actions that have given us a free land? A land where we enjoy everything without the suppression of any regime, where we can live according to our beliefs, and where I can roam freely with my friend from another religion. He is my brother, and I am his. We share happiness and togetherness. This is a blessing that most of us don’t fully realise, but I do. I feel that it is because of Jinnah that my friend and I can live this way, peacefully, without any boundaries separating us.

As a neighbour, I witness the festive decorations in Christian homes very closely. When Christmas is around the corner, the houses are filled with the aroma of cakes and cookies, and yummy traditional desserts; while the Christmas tree is decorated with little garlands, stars, fairy light and what not to make it look even more fascinating. And when it’s the morning of December 25th, all the members go to attend the Christmas service at the church.

The churches are also full of festivity and joy; their decoration just makes my heart skip a beat. Everywhere there are wreaths and garlands, the smell of fresh roses, and other flowers fill the air, the warm glow of candles at the chapel and platform just look mesmerising. The atmosphere is made even more special as everyone sings hymns and prays for peace and happiness for all. Then the pastor speaks about the importance of love and kindness, reminding everyone that these values are at the heart of Christmas.

Just like we after offering prayers on Eidul Fitr, and then gather at home to celebrate with our family, Christian families, also, after the services at church, celebrate the day at their homes, with their family members and friends. Like most festive gatherings, on this day, grievances are forgotten, as the occasion promotes love, care, harmony and togetherness. The tables are filled with delicious sweet and savoury dishes, including the traditional Christmas food items. This is also when the grandparents and the elderly share stories from their times, stories that teach everyone valuable lessons.

While the Christmas celebrations are in full swing, it reminds me of another great event, yes, Quaid-i-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah’s birthday, which also falls on the same day.

He’s rightly called the “father of the nation,” as he worked tirelessly to create Pakistan, a place where people of all religions could live freely. From the very beginning in our academic journeys, we have been taught that Jinnah believed in unity and equal rights for everyone. His speeches convey what a selfless, humble and sincere man he was!

Illustration by Gazein Khan

I know that for many kids, this might feel boring and typical of every year. But it is important to remind yourself of all the brave leaders, historical figures, and pivotal moments that made it possible for us to live in Pakistan. They may not seem significant to you, but by reminding yourself time and again of how it all happened, you will surely come to realise how important it is to preserve and protect this land.

And for this, I watch programmes on TV showing footage of Jinnah’s life. The stories about his struggles, his speeches and how he envisioned Pakistan as a land for everyone, regardless of their religion or background, make me respect this land even more. I watch with my family, feeling grateful for his leadership and for the sacrifices he made to give us this nation.

But you know what? My best friend never forgets me. He invites me to his home, where we share sweets and desserts, cherishing our friendship as we sit by the Christmas tree, admiring the twinkling lights. This is the moment when I reflect on what this friendship means to me and to him. If it weren’t for Jinnah’s dream, perhaps we wouldn’t be able to sit together like this.

My friend often tells me, “To me, December 25th isn’t just about Christmas. It’s a reminder of how special this country that we are living is, a place where my family can celebrate our traditions and honour the leader who made it all possible. It’s two celebrations in one heart — a heart filled with faith, gratitude and hope.”

I feel so proud of our friendship and our nation.

Jinnah’s vision of religious freedom

Jinnah dreamt of a country where people of all religions could live harmoniously. In his famous speech on August 11, 1947, he emphasised the need for religious freedom:

“You are free; you are free to go to your temples, you are free to go to your mosques or to any other place of worship in this State of Pakistan. You may belong to any religion, caste or creed — that has nothing to do with the business of the State.”

These words highlight the commitment of the Quaid to create a nation where diversity is celebrated rather than suppressed. He believed that religion should not interfere with matters of governance or equality, and ensured that every citizen — Muslim, Christian, Hindu or otherwise — felt a sense of belonging and security.

If you have a friend or classmate from a different faith, respect them and their beliefs. Make them feel valued and secure, knowing that they, too, have the right to live freely and celebrate their faith. After all, our religion teaches peace, harmony and respect for others. It is up to us to embody these values, show kindness and care for the minorities around us.

As Pakistan faces challenges related to religious intolerance and polarisation, the significance of December 25th grows even more profound. The day is a powerful reminder of the values that Pakistan was founded upon.

We, being in the majority, are responsible to guide and protect the minorities who are an integral part of this land, because it is their land too! We must ensure their safety and well-being, care for their needs and offer our support. We should also celebrate their happiness and stand by them in their moments of joy and grief. Granting minorities equal rights to celebrate their traditions, culture and religion is not just a privilege, but their rightful due.

A hopeful future

Hey, kids, don’t you think the coexistence of Quaid-i-Azam Day and Christmas on the same date serves as a beacon of hope for Pakistanis? Yes, it does, it reminds us that we have the potential to rise above divisions and live in harmony. This December 25th, let us celebrate not just the birth of a leader or the birth of a prophet, but also the birth of a timeless lesson: that diversity is a gift, and unity is its greatest expression.

Published in Dawn, Young World, December 21st, 2024

US judge finds Israeli firm liable for WhatsApp hacking

Reuters 

 December 22, 2024

OAKLAND: A US judge ruled on Friday in favour of Meta Platforms’ WhatsApp in a lawsuit accusing Israel’s NSO Group of exploiting a bug in the messaging app to install spy software allowing unauthorised surveillance.

US District Judge Phyllis Hamilton in Oakland, California, granted a motion by WhatsApp and found NSO liable for hacking and breach of contract. The case will now proceed to a trial only on the issue of damages, Hamilton said. NSO Group did not immediately respond to an emailed request for comment.

Will Cathcart, the head of WhatsApp, said the ruling is a win for privacy. “We spent five years presenting our case because we firmly believe that spyware companies could not hide behind immunity or avoid accountability for their unlawful actions,” Cathcart said in a social media post.

“Surveillance companies should be on notice that illegal spying will not be tolerated.” Cybersecurity exp­erts welcomed the judgment.

John Scott-Railton, a senior researcher with Canadian internet watchdog Citizen Lab which first brought to light NSOs Pegasus spyware in 2016 called the judgment a landmark ruling with huge implications for the spyware industry.

The entire industry has hidden behind the claim that whatever their customers do with their hacking tools, it’s not their responsibility, he said in an instant message. Today’s ruling makes it clear that NSO Group is in fact responsible for breaking numerous laws.

WhatsApp in 2019 sued NSO seeking an injunction and damages, accusing it of accessing WhatsApp servers without permission six months earlier to install the Pegasus software on victims’ mobile devices.

Published in Dawn, December 22nd, 2024

PAKISTAN


Fertility woes — the hidden cost of rising air pollution

As air pollution levels rise, women face a double burden — fighting for clean air and grappling with the impact on their reproductive health.

Aqsa Shams 

December 18, 2024


Climate-induced illnesses have been mounting globally with poorer nations being particularly vulnerable as they bear the brunt of greenhouse gas emissions more than anyone. Among the most alarming consequences is the toll on air quality, which not only fuels respiratory and cardiovascular diseases but also jeopardises human health on a broader scale — especially threatening women’s reproductive health and fertility.

In Pakistan, the crisis looms large over women in Punjab, the country’s most populous province and hub of hazardous air pollution. Lahore, the provincial capital, has consistently ranked among the world’s most polluted cities, with its skies choking on toxic smog year after year. This season is no different; Lahore’s spiralling air quality crisis has led to hospitals overflowing with patients suffering from respiratory illnesses, asthma, eye infections, and heart conditions.

Beyond the well-known health risks, recent studies indicate the risk of women developing fertility issues due to poor air quality index (AQI). According to research published by Environmental Science and Technology, high levels of air pollution in cities have an enormous impact on fertility, as exposure to PM2.5 reduces ovarian reserves and affects pregnancy rates.

Another study conducted by the National Library of Medicine states that “epidemiological research on humans and animals supports the view that air pollutants lead to abnormalities during reproduction, which reduces reproductive capacities in susceptible populations”.

Infertility is a growing global crisis. Nearly one in six adults worldwide will face infertility at some point in their lives — accounting for 17.5 per cent of the global population, the World Health Organisation notes.

Air pollution and infertility nexus

In Pakistan’s context, fertility expert Dr Zeryab Setna says, “A woman’s ovarian reserve may be negatively impacted by air pollution.” The cause? Cellular inflammation triggered by oxidative stress, disrupting hormones and the balance of the reproductive system. As the quality of life — spanning environment, food, and water — deteriorates, the rise in infertility rates is becoming hard to ignore. But Dr Setna remains cautious, acknowledging that, for now, a direct link between pollution and specific infertility cases remains elusive.

Yet, it’s not just women who are affected. “Men aged 30-45 are particularly vulnerable, with studies showing how air pollution can diminish sperm count, motility, and even damage DNA,” he added. The impact is clear — but the full extent remains under investigation.

Lahore-based gynaecologist Professor Dr Nudrat Sohail echoes this uncertainty. She acknowledges that the relationship between air pollution and female fertility is still debatable, with several theories emerging. “Firstly, air pollutants can mimic hormones such as androgens or estrogens, which can interfere with normal hormone function pathways. Another reason is attributed to air pollution potentially exacerbating inflammation and oxidative stress.”

Dr Sohail says that air pollution might very well affect fertility, but there is a lack of definitive research to pinpoint it as the primary cause. She stresses the urgent need for further studies to confirm or rule out the direct role of air pollutants in infertility.

Speaking to a renowned Indian newspaper, India-based senior consultant obstetrician and gynaecologist Dr Manju Gupta says, “Several air pollutants, including polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and heavy metals, have been connected to hormonal abnormalities. Endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs), or endocrine-disrupting chemicals, are prevalent in pollutants and can change how women produce, regulate, and discharge their reproductive hormones. This may result in irregular menstrual cycles, reduced fertility, and ovulatory dysfunction. These pollutants also have an adverse influence on egg quality, which makes pregnancy more challenging.”

Dr Gupta warns that the growing body of evidence points to a troubling connection between pollution and reproductive health.

What does medical research say?

According to Farhana Tabassum, manager of research related to the impact of climate change on women’s health at the Institute for Global Health and Development (IGHD) at Agha Khan University, Pakistan is the fifth most vulnerable country when it comes to climate change and its vulnerability to weather-related events intensifies the climate-induced risks impacting women’s fertility — risking maternal and babies’ health before and after delivery.

“Air pollutants could play a substantial role in driving fertility challenges for women,” she explains. The future of women’s reproductive health, Tabassum continues, looks increasingly bleak without decisive action to combat air pollution.

“Women’s exposure to hazardous pollutants like particulate matter, carbon monoxide, and other toxic gases interrupts hormonal balance and reproductive health contributing to an upsurge in infertility rates. With the inadequate healthcare and environmental degradation compounded with challenges such as malnutrition, the growing infertility crisis could become a serious public health issue, straining already overburdened healthcare systems,” she adds.

Future of pregnant women amid polluted environment

Tabassum paints a grim picture of the intersection between poor environmental conditions and maternal health, particularly in cities like Lahore. “Heat, stress, and poor air quality during pregnancy lead to adverse outcomes, including preterm births, neonatal mortality, and cardiovascular issues,” she says.

These risks, she emphasises, are not confined to urban centres but ripple across rural landscapes, where gender imbalances and resource disparities exacerbate the toll on women. “They are more exposed to air pollution during cooking, often using wood as fuel, which releases harmful smoke.”

“During crop-cutting seasons, women work in open fields, inhale dust and pollutants from agricultural activities. These environmental exposures along with the additional responsibility of household chores and caregiving, significantly increase their risk of respiratory and reproductive health issues. This heightened vulnerability demands urgent attention to improving air quality and protecting women’s health, particularly in rural areas,” she adds.

Tabassum underscores the significance of conducting joint studies to understand the ramifications of climate change on the health of women and children.

“Majority of research on this topic has been conducted in advanced countries, and our nation does not have access to such data. To evaluate the risks and effects of extreme climate change, air quality, and heat on the health of women and children, research needs to be conducted by both public and private institutions in collaboration with global organisations such as the WHO,” she states.

She further adds that the evidence could guide the development of policies aimed at improving maternal and child health in the face of climate change, “as healthy mothers and children are the foundation of a prosperous future.”

Poor air quality and women’s mental health

Mental health issues are prevalent in our society but concurrently are the most neglected ones. Most people lack awareness regarding mental health problems, often dismissing them as unworthy of treatment. However, their impacts are profound. According to several studies, compared to men, women suffer more from mental health issues due to reasons ranging from strict cultural norms to the absence of basic rights.

While the causes of poor mental health are varied, air pollution has emerged as an overlooked contributor, potentially exacerbating the pre-existing ones.

“Poor air quality becomes a contributing factor in the cause and elevation of psychological disorders. People exposed to air pollution may feel anxiety, depression, dementia, poor memory, headaches, and brain fogging impacting overall productivity,” says clinical psychologist Rabia Usman.

“Meanwhile, children may develop neurocognitive development disorders.”

Speaking about women, she points out that increased stress levels affect women’s bodies more than men’s. “Stress triggers the release of a hormone called cortisol. When stress levels remain high, the body produces excess cortisol, disrupting insulin regulation in women. This can lead to insulin resistance, hormonal imbalances, and conditions such as PCOS and PCOD,” she elaborates.
High stress levels and risk of miscarriage

Usman associates high levels of stress in pregnant women with the risk of miscarriage. “Insulin plays a crucial role in producing healthy eggs, enabling women to conceive. When insulin does not function properly, it can hinder the generation of quality eggs, making conception difficult. Even if pregnancy occurs, the chances of miscarriage doubles.”

She further highlights that air pollution is one of the most pressing issues today. “Pregnant women must stay in clean air to safeguard the health of both the mother and the fetus. Clean air reduces the risk of complications and ensures the normal development of the baby’s brain,” she says.
Punjab government’s measures to curb air pollution

In a bid to counteract the devastating effects of climate change, the Punjab government has launched multiple strategies aimed at reclaiming breathable air and sustainable cities. From stretching the number of trees across the city to employing spare land to plant agricultural forests, Punjab is striving to rewrite its environmental narrative.

The government has imposed mandatory vehicle certifications from workshops, announcing that no unfit vehicles would be allowed on the roads. The vehicles that transport sand and soil are also under strict scrutiny and inspection.

To ensure compliance, Punjab’s Environmental Protection Department (EPD) is at the frontline, targeting industrial polluters and the country’s 20,000+ brick kilns — deemed by a UNEP report as significant culprits behind Pakistan’s air pollution crisis. However, the EPD in collaboration with the National Energy Efficient Conservation Authority (NEECA) is working with the Brick Kiln Owners Association of Pakistan on the development of new eco-friendly methods to mitigate industrial emissions.

The Punjab government has also announced its first-ever Climate Resilient Punjab Vision Action Plan 2024 to deal with environmental problems. This comprehensive blueprint charts a future of low-emission green development, green investments, and climate-conscious education. It also ventures into climate diplomacy, tackling cross-border environmental challenges. Yet, the question persists: can these promises break through the inertia of insufficient public awareness and weak implementation?

Beyond the choking smog, the stakes are rising in harrowing ways. As the world grapples with its devastating repercussions, women find themselves at heightened risk of hormonal imbalances and infertility. This isn’t just an environmental crisis; it’s a battle for survival, for our health, and for the future of generations yet to come.

Header image: A woman carries a child as she walks across a railway track amid heavy smog in Lahore late last month. 

— AFP

The author is a multimedia journalist and producer with experience at Geo News, Samaa Digital, and Independent Urdu. Her work focuses on amplifying marginalised voices in Pakistan. She tweets: https://x.com/Aqsashams_?t=Q3grJwZzbJ4Khi5DmOQdBg&s=09

 PAKISTAN

The secrets of Karomber Lake — a tale of curses, trials, and beauty

Karomber Lake, the princess of the mountains, guards her serene splendour with trials that test the soul. Only the brave, guided by the whispers of legend and the pull of wanderlust, earn her timeless embrace.

Sulman Ali 

 December 20, 2024 

Once upon a time, in a land far removed from the mundane, there lived a princess like no other. Her beauty was whispered through the ages — a royal aura so captivating it left poets in awe, musicians lost in melody, and writers grasping for words. She was not merely admired; she was revered. Legends tell of her magnificence: a vision of serenity cloaked in untold stories, her presence as still and profound as a calm sea.

One fateful day, the tales of her splendour reached the ears of a mighty Jinn. Intrigued, he journeyed across seven seas and kingdoms to see her with his own eyes. And when he did, the sight bewitched him for centuries. Her beauty, he decreed, was too rare, too sacred, for ordinary eyes. So, in a moment of jealousy, he cast a spell that veiled her in a realm of perpetual isolation — a haven of snow-capped peaks, sapphire waters, and endless blooms of daffodils.

But the Jinn’s admiration turned to cruelty, for he cursed those who dared seek her out. To reach her court, mortals would endure a gauntlet of trials: flood-ravaged roads, treacherous mountain paths, freezing glaciers, and valleys that test the limits of the soul. Only the brave, or the reckless, would attempt the journey — a journey cursed to reveal not just the princess’ charm but also the seeker’s spirit.

This is the story of that cursed journey.

The beginning of ‘The Curse’

With bags packed, we set off for Islamabad, joining the Tour Rangers for yet another adventure. This year brought surprises — Imran Bhai, our trusted guide, wouldn’t be joining us. Instead, the trek would be led by Moin and Akmal Lal.

Akmal, the spirited trekker from Booni, Chitral, was a character like no other — blunt, eccentric, and unmatched in determination. Love him or hate him, one thing was certain: this trek wouldn’t have been possible without him.

It was because of him we could witness the land of royalty — a land where yaks have roamed for centuries, where flowers bloomed and danced in the silent breeze, where green meadows stretch endlessly, bearing witness to the wanderers passing by, where the glacial streams roar without uttering a word, and where Karomber Lake lies cradled in her solitude, guarding secrets only the boldest dare to seek.

Every trek starts the same: strangers with their own tales converge, setting off on a shared adventure. Ours began in Islamabad, a van humming with Abida Parveen and Naseebo Lal’s song as we headed towards Chitral. Optimism ran high as we dreamed of reaching the Karomber Lake and hearing her whispered legends.

But as journeys often remind us, the path to the destination is rarely smooth. The first trial came swiftly — we were met with the news that floods had washed away the only road connecting Chitral to Booni, our planned stopover. No vehicle could pass. It was the first taste of the cursed road’s wrath.

The washed away road connecting Chitral to Booni



We stayed in Chitral that evening, the rugged mountains casting shadows over our doubts. But soon enough, we gave in to our collective curiosity, leading us to take on the broken road. In the darkness, we could barely make out the damage, but locals crossing on foot sparked a flicker of hope. With relatively diminished optimism we rested, knowing the real trek had only just begun.
A tea-filled respite

Morning brought renewed energy as we packed, ate, and set off for the first washed-out patch of the road. Thanks to Akmal’s local ties, we reached the edge of the broken path and crossed it on foot, leaving our gear behind. But when we learned that there were no porters available, some of us trudged back to carry our luggage, food, sleeping bags and stoves.

From there, we squeezed onto two jeeps, only to repeat the cycle: cross another damaged patch, switch vehicles, and push on. By the time we reached Booni, we discovered yet another obstacle — the bridge to Mastuj had been swept away by the river. So, Booni became our unexpected base for the night, and what a tea-filled respite it was! Between Akmal’s friends, roadside dhabas, and his family’s hospitality, we must have had tea six times that day.

The vast green plains of Qaqlasht meadows



The highlight, however, was a spontaneous visit to the Qaqlasht meadows, vast green plains perched above the town. Though not in full bloom, the meadows were bathed in golden sunset light, their silence punctuated by a gentle breeze.
‘The Curse’ continues

We woke up refreshed, only to be greeted by yet another setback — the single road’s blockage had caused a diesel shortage in Booni. Unfazed, we moved on, pinning our hopes on Akmal’s ever-handy connections.

On the way to Mastuj



At Mastuj, the van was left behind as we crossed the town’s damaged bridge on foot. Two jeeps awaited us — one a larger vehicle for most of the group, while Aisha, Usman, (fellow trekkers) and I squeezed into a Suzuki Jimny. This intimate ride turned out to be memorable as we bonded over Punjab University (our shared alma mater), debated the absurdity of building a DHA in the mountains, and exchanged hearty Punjabi juggats.

Our next stop was the avalanche-hit village of Brep, where tragedy had swept away homes. At a desolate petrol station, Ali bhai entertained himself by trying — and failing — to ignite a fuel tank with a matchstick. His antics were interrupted by the arrival of the second jeep, which brought fresh diesel courtesy of, you guessed it, Akmal’s father’s wide-reaching connections.

Rest house at Brep

Onward we went, navigating through a kilometres-wide avalanche of mud, where we spotted a dog casually strolling across the expanse. Usman and I joked that he was probably off to meet his in-laws, though I often wonder if he ever made it.

By night, we reached Bang, a quiet village where our journey paused but tensions escalated. For the first time, Akmal dropped his usual playful demeanour and gave us “the talk”. His rare seriousness hinted at the trials that lay ahead.
‘The talk’

After dinner, we gathered in a single room where Akmal and the guesthouse owner prepared us for the hardest stretch of our journey yet. Their 45-minute briefing was equal parts warning and encouragement. A 12-kilometre road had been completely swallowed by the river, leaving only a narrow, precarious trek high above its original path. Locals took six hours to cross it; for us, it could take double. Encouraging, right? However, they assured us we could do it — there was no turning back now.

Morning brought no reprieve as our jeep journey ended abruptly after just an hour. The road had literally disappeared, another victim of relentless rains. The theme of this trek seemed to be ‘washed-away roads’. Undeterred, we grabbed our bags and trekking sticks, and so began the trek.

Our spirits lifted briefly as we reached a picturesque village nestled in the mountains. There, a local porter — joining us on the journey to Karomber — welcomed us into his home for a short rest. In that serene moment, embraced by rustic charm, we paused to catch our breath, certain that no matter how daunting the path ahead, it was going to be worth it.
Out of syllabus 17-kilometer long trek

The locals once again warned us about the treacherous trek ahead, but then, a blessing arrived. A villager, curious about our journey to Karomber Lake, revealed an alternative — a wooden bridge in his village that led to a gentler route. Though five kilometres longer, it promised a less gruelling journey.

Built by two brothers who lived on either side of the river, the bridge was a marvel of local ingenuity. After much debate, most of us chose the longer path, leaving a few other trekkers — Akmal, Saleema, and Arooba to brave the original route with the porters. We crossed the bridge and began our 17-kilometre trek. Local guides led us through the rugged mountains and the tranquil village of Zhuppu.

We treaded through the path, which seemed endless, under the scorching sun. Just when fatigue began to creep in, a stroke of luck arrived — locals offered us a ride in the open back of their four-wheeler. As we bounced along, they showed us a centuries-old defence point, where Chitralis had once fought against Tajikistan, a massive stone wall connecting two mountains.

After the ride, the trek resumed, leading us to our first glacial water crossing. The coldness of the water sent a shock through my body — a sensation so frigid that my feet still long for warmth at the mere thought of it. But we pressed on, walking for hours until we reached a village where we were supposed to catch another jeep.

But, as always, the curse of the journey proved faithful, sticking to us like an unwanted companion. No jeep awaited us.

When we reached the village, we had to walk another 4–5km because the only jeep bridge had been destroyed, and another was barely holding on, making it impossible for the vehicle to reach us. So, we walked again, until we reached a pasture with lush green grass and a calm, inviting stream. There, we dipped our aching feet into the icy waters, letting it soothe our exhaustion as we waited for the rest of the group.

When they finally arrived, we didn’t dare to hope for an end to the walking. And rightly so — another 20 minutes on foot brought us to where the jeep was parked. Ah, the joy of finally sitting down in a vehicle was indescribable.

Rest house in Lasht



Packed into the jeep, the journey resumed — though it felt like it had never truly paused. By nightfall, we reached a small guesthouse in Lasht, where we settled in for the night. An amusing highlight of the evening was when we discovered the local knock-offs — “Soober” biscuits and “String” energy drinks — bringing a smile to our weary faces as the day drew to a close.

The path-making

The next day, Akmal dropped another “exciting” update: our last roadblock was near a village called Kishmanja, where the jeep trek had merged with the river. The path was damaged at three points, with one section so eroded it left a gaping hole. Our jeep driver took one look, sat down, and calmly announced, “I’m not driving here. If you want, take the jeep and drive yourselves.”

Negotiations ensued, and after much pleading — and a promise to help repair the road — he reluctantly agreed. We sprang into action, collecting stones, widening the track, and filling gravel. An hour later, progress was negligible; we were nowhere near mending that patch.

Left: Mending the road in Kishmanja. Right: Glacial stream in Kishmanja

Akmal sent the jeep helper to find labourers from a nearby village, and, in a fateful twist, they recognised Akmal’s father from previous road projects. As they worked, some of us headed to a Chitral Scouts check post, hoping for tea and distracting ourselves from looming failure.

Hours dragged on. Dejected, we returned to find no improvement — the jeep couldn’t cross. Exhaustion and despair set in. For the first time, I truly believed the journey was over; the curse seemed unbreakable.

Then, after nearly five hours, Akmal and Moeen appeared with the driver and a senior officer, beaming with news: the jeep had made it across. For a moment, everything felt right. That tiny victory, after all the struggle, was pure happiness.

All the way to Lashkargaz

Packed into the jeep, we navigated a rugged jeep trek, barely a road at all. As we approached the Darkhot Glacier lying silently among towering peaks with hushed water flowing beneath it, its once-mighty form now scarred by human impact.

Darkhot glacier



Most importantly, we had finally entered the glorious Broghil valley, home of yaks and untouched beauty, ‘only’ 250 kilometres from Chitral. By afternoon, we reached Ishkarwaz, the last checkpoint before crossing into the Wakhan Corridor, a realm bordering Afghanistan and Tajikistan. Here, the Wakhi people live as their ancestors did, their lives unchanged by time.

Stepping into the valley with its 34 lakes (named and unnamed), glaciers, and wildflower meadows felt like being transported into another world. To enter is to be granted an audience with Her Highness Karomber, a rare privilege for only the most determined travellers.

Finally, we made it to Laskhkargaz, our first-night stay in camps, where the mountains saw you silently, observing you as the breeze passed through their snow-covered peaks, and the roof there was made of stars. Laughter and stories filled the air as anticipation for the lake grew. Under the vastness of the Milky Way, we felt infinitesimal, yet deeply connected to the universe.

Camping at Lashkargaz



Above all, we were standing at the gates of Her Highness’ palace, where the vast, verdant expanse of the Broghil valley granted us entry into her inner courts. Here, she has rested for centuries, patiently awaiting the wanderers. In her presence, she shares her stories, listens to theirs, whispers the ancient legends of her land, and personally welcomes you — one of the few fortunate souls chosen to stand in her royal company.
Walk to the abode

We began the trek the next day with content hearts and eager feet, leaving Lashkargaz in small groups. First were Waleed, Nawaz Bhai, Usman, and Ali, followed by Aisha, Abdullah, Sadia, and I. Moeen led the porters, and Akmal, Saleema, and Arooba were last. We moved like minnows among giants, walking the ancient paths once tread by daring ancestors. Passing through quiet villages, we were greeted by warm smiles and the unspoken hospitality of the valley’s people.

Leaving Broghil valley



The first group, led by Waleed, set a fast pace, and in our attempt to catch up, we took a wrong turn. A shout echoed from above — it was Moeen, guiding us back on track. We ascended, breathless but determined, and soon rejoined the group. After crossing the first glacial waterfall of the day, we took some rest. We continued strolling in a bit, making little conversations; someone put songs on their phone, and the music perfectly complimented the breeze of the valley, while the river sparkled like scattered diamonds.

Karomber’s presence loomed in the distance, a snow-covered peak where she rested. The Yaks grazed nearby, seemingly indifferent to our passage. As the sun dipped, so did our energy. Our feet started protesting, and the mind questioned the purpose of it all. But the heart, drawn by the call of royalty, urged us onward. So, we pulled up our socks and pushed forward, pausing occasionally to rest on the lush green pastures, feeling the breathing rhythm of the valley.
The first glimpse

By then, the peak of the mountain loomed above the lake, and you could almost taste the promise of sitting by those blue waters. Yet, with every step, it seemed further away. Mound after mound rose, each ascent filled with hope, each descent sinking you into despair. The body was tired, each footstep heavier than the last.

Then came the marshes, soft underfoot, followed by another fleeting glimpse — only to reveal a small, black lake. Those 45 minutes stretched into eternity, the minutes blurred into hours, the narrow path seemed endless, and the trek felt like it would never end. But still, you walked on.

And then, finally, the first true sight of her — the princess. Her blue waters, so still, seemed to capture the very sky above, as clouds drifted over her silent waves. The mighty guard stood tall, silent, as a small glacier peeked through her crown. Flowers danced in the breeze, the grass greener than ever. There she was — vast, tranquil, with waves gently kissing the shore as they had for eons. In that moment, you understood the legends that had been passed down through generations.

First glimpse of the Karomber Lake



You understood the curse — the journey had to be arduous, for royalty is never meant for the common, and meeting her too easily would have cheapened the experience.

As you reached the final mound, you crested it and froze. There she was, the princess in all her glory. No sound, no voice, just the gentle wind welcoming you. Time stood still; you were in a realm beyond the boundaries of time. A minute could have passed, but it felt like thousands of years. You stood alone with her, in a place untouched by the notions of right or wrong. You met her in the stillness, where nothing else mattered.
The conversation

I stood there, overwhelmed and silent, like how a traveller who had finally reached their destination after a lifetime of wandering would. Slowly, I stepped into her court. Her waves, gentle yet powerful, lapped at the shore as though welcoming me to her kingdom.

We spoke without words. She whispered the tales of her ancient past, the myths of her origin, the secrets hidden in her depths, the untold poems, the folklores of the natives, the flocks that flew over her, the first wanderer who saw her millennials ago.

In return, I shared my journey — years of dreaming, a second attempt, the curses overcome. But none of that mattered now. In her presence, my burdens lifted, my heart lightened, and my soul found peace. We sat together in a conversation beyond words and time. Those twenty minutes were a universe unto themselves — a life fully lived.

The picturesque Karomber Lake



That night, we slept beside her under a sky ablaze with stars. By morning, the weather had turned sombre, as if mourning our impending departure. Clouds gathered, and a light drizzle kissed the earth as we packed our camps. Her waves, now grey and solemn, seemed to echo our goodbyes.

With a final glance from the last mound, we left. Our laughter, our songs, and our stories now belong to her winds, woven into her lore. Karomber will whisper our tale to the next dreamers who dare to seek her, and our memory will linger in her court for eternity…

Till we trek again!

Header Image: Karomber Lake

Note: All photos in the article are provided by the author.