How face masks became a fashion statement – in stylish circles, form foFrom operating theatre to fashion runway, designers put their own, often absurd twist on the face mask, Hong Kong’s new everyday accessory

Sofia Suarez Published: 21 Feb, 2020

People wear face masks in Hong Kong, on February 9. Photo: AFP

For most of us, a face mask is not a fashion statement. Most recently, it is being used as a shield against the coronavirus, before that as an attempt to hide the identity of protesters, or a defence against air pollution.

We don’t have the luxury of considering how the white or blue material coordinates with an outfit, although it may have crossed your mind.

A simple online search for the now-scarce surgical face masks opens up a rabbit hole of designer face masks and celebrity fashion statements. As only the fashion industry can do, it has infused medical supplies with absurdity and, argu­ably, beauty, creating a niche accessory category.
Before 2003, a Hongkonger wearing a face mask in the street was a rarity. After
the Sars outbreak, however, it became common practice in public spaces and even, somewhat comically, for drivers alone in their cars. Masks have become ingrained in our daily lives in subsequent years owing to H1N1 (swine flu), Middle East respiratory syndrome, annual flu seasons and, yes, pollution. Designers and celebrities eventually caught on.

Billie Eilish at the Grammy Awards, in January, wearing a Gucci face mask. Photo: AFP

In 2014, Chinese designers such as Masha Maand Yin Peng sent models down the runways wearing haute face masks. That same year, Yoox collaborated with Chinese designers Qiu Hao, Xander Zhou and Sankuanz on a series of luxury face masks. I wish I could report a decline in the anti-sun facekinis that gained notoriety a few years ago, but a sighting was made in Hong Kong just the other day. Sorry, the only way those might work against the coronavirus is by scaring people away.

Ariana Grande sold face masks in tandem with new album releases in both 2014 and 2019. South Korean boy band BTS famously wore and continue to sell branded face masks. We’ve also seen masks as signature looks on rappers such as Future, 2 Chainz, Travis Scott, Ayo & Teo and Young Thug. Bloggers have been bedazzling their surgical masks for fashion week, too.

So-called urban athletes have had various anti-pollution masks to turn to by companies such as R-Pur, Airinum, Cambridge Mask, Vogmask and Respro. Offering a choice of colours and patterns, not to mention reusability, non-cyclists got in line pretty quickly, too. It should come as no surprise then that designer collabora­tions were fast to follow. The label Marcelo Burlon County of Milan worked on a line with Respro, in 2014. Designer Manish Arora collaborated with Vogmask in 2016 for the Indian market, another country facing significant air pollution. Swedish brand Airinum released a collaboration with Italy’s Nemen, in 2019.

For her spring/summer 2020 collection, Marine Serre collaborated with R-Pur to create designer anti-pollution face masks. It’s a theme she explored last season, too. Fendi sells a silk face mask printed in its iconic logo. Virgil Abloh’s Off-White has been making branded cotton masks for a while, more as street style than germ barrier. Labels such as A Bathing Ape, Heron Preston, Maison Margiela and Gareth Pugh have all riffed off the face mask.

An anti-pollution face mask from Marine Serre’s spring/summer 2020 collection. Photo: AFP

Gucci’s autumn/winter 2018 runway show controversially presented black woollen masks with red lines around the lips and a similar balaclava jumper that were immediately
slammed as being a reference to “blackface” and quickly withdrawn from sale. Then, last month, singer Billie Eilish appeared at the Grammy Awards in fluore­scent
green-and-black Gucci from head to toe, including face and nails and a branded face mask.

Known for her outlandish style, Eilish has been rocking dressed-up face masks for a while, by brands such as Louis Vuitton and Burberry. Her own merchandise has included the Billie green slime mask. Don’t look for it; it’s sold out.
What should you look for to keep away those germs? Experts say face masks aren’t recommended for the general public. Ultimately, it looks like
washing hands regularly, avoiding touching your face while out and staying away from crowded places might be your best defence.

Clearly, the hysteria and the designer face mask aren’t going away any time soon, though, so choose wisely. Surgical, N95 and N99 masks are all different, but most wearers don’t adjust them well enough for them to be effective. Your money may be better spent pampering yourself with a beautifully scented luxury hand sanitiser by brands such as Byredo, Aesop or EO. Stay healthy!

Sofia Suarez personal shopper and teacher, Sofia A. Suárez, contributes to newspapers, magazines, travel guides and luxury brands around the world. Born and raised in Hong Kong, the Filipina-Italian attended Georgetown University before moving to New York to begin her career at Fairchild Publications. She has been a contributor to the Post since 1999, focusing on fashion, art and design.