Monday, January 22, 2024

CORNWALL
Soul Farm, the regenerative small-scale farm that helps feed the poor

It works with local foodbanks but needs to expand so it can do even more good in the community



By Olivier Vergnault
Senior Reporter 
Cornwall Live
21 JAN 2024

Whether it is the fear of food insecurity, an interest in finding out where the food you eat comes from, ecological and environmental concerns or the love of being outdoors and meeting new people and learning something new, the last decade or so has seen a renaissance in market farming in Cornwall.

Sarah Pethybridge was weeding a strip of winter greens and lettuce when we visited Soul Farm on the Trefusis Estate just outside Flushing. What was once the walled garden of the great house is again producing vegetables which volunteers like Sarah help to grow.

Soul Farm's ethos being aligned with her own world views, the retired counsellor and yoga teacher started to get involved with the small market farm during the pandemic as a way to keep busy, be outdoors and socialise, albeit in a safe socially-distant way.

"I love gardening and being outdoors and working with the land," the 70-year-old gran said. "I started during the pandemic as a way to be with people and do something outdoors that was safe. I am very worried about the climate chaos and how we're going to grow food. Coming here is my dose of sanity. I get to grow food and see the plants respond to our changing climate. I love learning about regenerative gardening and agriculture that looks after the soil."

Sarah is visibly passionate about the environment and the ecological concerns of the day and coming to Soul Farm once a week is, in a small part, being part of the solution. "I come here and learn and do something positive rather than worry," she added.

Soul Farm was set up in 2018 by graphic designer Laurence Jarrett-Kerr who was looking at ways to set up his own business that would take him away from the computer screen. He met Jan Trefusis, the current owner of the Trefusis estate which overlooks Falmouth and the Fal estuary, through Facebook, at a time when he was looking for a plot of land to get his market farm business idea off the ground.

Jan decided to give Laurence his chance, set the old walled garden aside for it and decided to become a director of the new business, and Soul Farm was born. Its first crop came the following year. "Falmouth was always going to be a good market to sell organic fresh produce to. It's quite affluent and I knew there was always going to be a market for it," Laurence said.

Sarah Pethybridge loves volunteering at Soul Farm 
(Image: Greg Martin / Cornwall Live)

"Our environmental goal was always a given so our North Star is about food justice and the inequalities in our food system. For us, it is about how we get locally produced organic food to everyone."

The 42-year-old from Stithians has a sliding scale model so those who can pay a bit more do so to subsidise those on lower income so they too can afford a veg box from Soul Farm. When the farm started out, it produced about enough to sell to local restaurants and for about 30 veg boxes a week and give some food to local food banks too. During the pandemic, that number grew to 70 then 80 a week and now Soul Farm sells about 120 boxes a week.

"We have strong links with the foodbanks so when giving them vegetables we have to think about what is appropriate or think about what you could cook if you only had a kettle," Laurence explained. "Our veg boxes are very much produce-led rather than recipe-led so you have to be creative in the kitchen. But we're certainly working to reach more of your 'average Joe' customers."

Soul Farm grows leafy greens, salad stuff and root veg over four acres at two sites - the walled garden on the Trefusis Estate and a field down the road towards Flushing where the veg boxes are put together.

Soul Farm, the community regenerative small scale farm at Trefusis Estate near Flushing. (Image: Greg Martin / Cornwall Live)

"It was after Covid that we set up our farmers' market and it's taken off in a crazy way," Laurence added. "I never imagined that people would come to this dusty old barn to buy their vegetables in the middle of nowhere. But they did and they've continued to do so even after Covid."

He added: "There certainly was this appetite during the pandemic for locally produced food especially when there was a shortage of certain things. I think people became aware then that access to food was not as secure as they thought it was. It hasn't been as crazy as it was during that time but our customers have stayed with us. Demand for it is still there and going strong."

Laurence said that there has been a great renaissance in market gardens and small-scale farms. "We're not replacing the big tractor farms nor do we want to. We're just offering an alternative. We're not doing fields of potatoes or rapeseed. That's not what we're about. We have to focus on certain veg. We'll do baby carrots rather than big carrots as we have to focus on a high rotation. We grow all year round outside in the warmer months and under polytunnels in winter. We have a 'no dig' policy. We just cover the ground with tarpaulin which keeps the weeds down."

Laurence Jarrett-Kerr, co-director of Soul Farm, standing above a field 
(Image: Greg Martin / Cornwall Live)

Every week between five and 12 volunteers like Sarah join Laurence at Soul Farm attracted by the need to do something positive with their hands and by the camaraderie. "For me, it's about giving something back," fellow volunteer Andy Goodall, 59, from Ponsanooth, said.

"I've been coming for three months since retiring from my job at King's College London's IT service centre in Quintrell Downs. I wanted to do some volunteering that involves the environment and conservation. When I started looking around for opportunities, I stumbled across Soul Farm.

"They have volunteer days and I loved it. What I really enjoy is learning and contributing. I think the social interaction is a huge thing for the volunteers. Social interactions were very important for me and Soul Farm has given me all this. I'm not doing this for any material reward. What I get back is what I learn. My wife and I are interested in organic growing so to be here and see how food is produced in that way is enough. It's about giving your time for free and not expecting anything in return. That's what's positive. I give my time and increase my knowledge so I'm happy."

Andy Goodall, 59, from Ponsanooth, is a volunteer at Soul Farm near Flushing
 (Image: Greg Martin / Cornwall Live)

Giving something back has been inherent to Soul Farm since the beginning. Twinned with Truro Foodbank, both organisations learn from each other while the farm gives some of its produce to families in need in the area. It also welcomes speakers from the university to speak about environmental issues and wildlife biodiversity.

Verena Vandenberg, 44, is one of the volunteers who enjoys giving her time to Soul Farm when she can. Working in nature education, she used to visit primary schools to teach young children about gardening. For her it's about keeping her skills up and learning new things she can then pass onto the next generation.

"I've been coming since summer 2022. I'm learning about the 'no dig' technique and supporting a better and healthier soil life so it can do its thing without the need for ploughing or pesticides. It's nice to come here and be involved and do something positive in Cornwall."

Verena Vandenberg, volunteer at Soul Farm, the community regenerative small scale farm at Trefusis Estate near Flushing (Image: Greg Martin / Cornwall Live)

Soul Farm is hoping to become community-owned. As such it is offering the local community an opportunity to become co-owners and join its small team in its mission to make healthy, sustainably grown food accessible to everyone, regardless of income or background. It is looking to raise £350,000 in community shares so the financial stress is spread out rather than resting solely on Laurence's shoulders and that of the handful of other directors. The money will also help Soul Farm to expand.

The funds raised will go towards the building of a new polytunnel, which will increase winter vegetable production as well as the training and hiring of new team members.

"For my Instagram feed the story is that setting up Soul Farm has been an amazing experience and I absolutely love it and I certainly won't be going back to my desk job," Laurence said. "However, the reality of running your own business especially with low margins and cash flow being a constant issue is that it's f***ing stressful."

To find out how you can help Soul Farm and become a shareholder, visit https://www.soulfarm.co.uk/community-ownership






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