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Saturday, June 13, 2026

AI SWEATSHOP
'Gulag': Revolt ignites against Mark Zuckerberg inside Meta's massive AI unit

Daniel Hampton
June 12, 2026 
RAW STORY


FILE PHOTO: Meta CEO Mark Zuckerberg tries on Orion AR glasses at the Meta Connect annual event at the company's headquarters in Menlo Park, California, U.S., September 25, 2024. REUTERS/Manuel Orbegozo/File Photo

Mark Zuckerberg's $14 billion AI gamble hit a wall, and his own employees are losing it on internal calls.

One Meta worker interrupted a livestreamed presentation to thousands of colleagues this week, blasting the company over an open mic and demanding the call's leaders pass along a personal message to a Meta AI executive: "Tell him that he's a piece of s---," according to a recording reviewed by Wired.

A presenter buried their face in their hands, witnesses said. Other employees commented on the "spicy" opening before the meeting was muted.

The outburst was just one symptom of what the outelt described as record-low morale across Meta following CEO Mark Zuckerberg's AI restructuring — which included roughly 8,000 layoffs and the forced reassignment of about 6,500 engineers and product managers to a new unit called Applied AI.

"It's literally the gulag," a current employee told Wired. Another said the menial work is "soul-crushing." Engineers say they have no choice but to join or leave the company entirely, and some have begun referring to themselves as "draftees."

The discontent comes weeks after more than 1,600 Meta employees signed a petition demanding the company halt its program monitoring U.S. workers' clicks and keystrokes to generate AI training data. The new Applied AI unit is part of Zuckerberg's sprawling, multibillion-dollar push to compete with rival AI firms.

Friday, June 12, 2026

The state and its workers: China’s class politics after 1989

Chinese workers protest

First published at Phenomenal World.

In April 1989, a series of explosive pro-democracy movements erupted across China. These movements and their political fate remain poorly understood today. While conventional accounts tend to depict liberal intellectuals and elite college students as the main protagonists, millions of workers and working-class urban residents also participated in the movement, especially in its final weeks. Although many joined initially out of sympathy for students on hunger strike, they soon began to articulate their own distinct visions of democracy, demanding the replacement of the bureaucratic system of enterprise management with workers’ participation and self-representation. They established independent and democratically run workplace organizations which began to publish pamphlets denouncing the “Stalinist dictatorial bureaucracy” for causing inflation to spiral. The only remedy was to place control over consumer goods in the hands of their producers. Their rhetoric blended the discourse of the Cultural Revolution with invocations of various other historical uprisings. One handbill called on the masses to “storm the Bastilles of the twentieth century.”

Between mid-May and early June, these working-class actors were on the frontlines of the unrest. As martial law was declared and military regiments marched towards Beijing, masses of ordinary people flocked to the outskirts of the city and tried to obstruct them. They erected barricades and formed human chains, they brought water and food to soldiers, imploring them to lay down their arms. They formed armed quasi-militias to monitor the whereabouts of the military and maintain critical public services. Factory workers organized shopfloor committees, strikes, and slowdowns, while rumors of a general strike abounded. Beijing almost became a self-governing territory, not all that dissimilar to Petrograd’s self-organized and self-armed soviets in the months between the February and October Revolutions of 1917. When the Chinese Communist Party (CCP) launched a final crackdown on the night of June 3, 1989 to liquidate these committees, workers fought back with stones. They lit tires, Molotov cocktails, and their own bodies. Hundreds sacrificed their lives.

Reclaiming the working-class character of the 1989 movements casts recent Chinese history in a new light and reshapes our understanding of the country’s current conjuncture. The moment marked a fundamental rupture between two modes of industrial class politics in post-Mao China, particularly in terms of the relationship between the Party-state and the industrial working class. Previously, the Party-state’s nominal political commitment to upholding workers’ “masterly” social status, along with the institutional framework of socialist public property, made the working class a political-economic force to be reckoned with, capable of contesting the meaning of “socialism” in ways big and small. After 1989, however, the Party-state changed course, dismantling both these pillars of the old order. This gave rise to a new iteration of the industrial working class which evoked the classic image of the proletariat, toiling in capital’s satanic mills under the whip of the labor market and the despotism of private interests. How did this transition take place? And how might the process of class recomposition in contemporary China affect the long-term outlook of this great power? 

Before 1989

After the death of Mao Zedong in 1976, China’s high politics entered a period of leadership struggle eventually resulting in Deng Xiaoping’s ascent. In their quest to consolidate popular support, the post-Mao Party leadership recognized the importance of securing mass consent from industrial workers, who were said to constitute the “ruling class” in socialist society. Two significant wage increases were implemented between 1977 and 1979. The planning apparatus deemphasized industrial capital accumulation, encouraging factories to budget more spending for workers’ consumption and livelihood needs. For a moment, the Party leadership appeared as open-minded reformers endorsing a critical rethinking of Chinese socialism, which in turn inspired everyday workers to broaden their horizons. These workers criticized the Party-state in ways previously unthinkable and imagined alternative socialist futures.

Interest in the Yugoslavian model of heterodox socialism began to trickle down from intellectual and policymaking circles to rank-and-file workers. While the first group looked to Yugoslavia for lessons on how to build market socialism, the second was more enthused by what they saw as a radical experiment in workplace democracy. In early 1981, workers at the Wuhan Boiler Factory argued that a worker-elected management committee should be the firm’s highest decision-making body rather than the Party branch. Such forces were emboldened by the strike wave and independent union activity then sweeping across Poland in 1980. Within weeks, grassroots Chinese workers were heard citing the “Polish incident” and contemplating the possibility of staging their own equivalent.1 Between late 1980 and mid-1981, strikes centering the demand for independent unions broke out in major industrial cities including Shanghai, Wuhan, Shenyang, Anshan, Harbin, Beijing, Chengdu, and Taiyuan.

The Party leadership scrambled to come up with a response. Unwilling to tolerate workers’ attempts to carve out political independence, yet unable to break the socialist link between the state and the working class, leadership eventually devised a concessionary strategy. They gave public enterprises expanded autonomy to manage their own financial affairs and strengthened shopfloor institutions of workplace democracy, though they were still restricted by the parameters set by Party branches. The next few years thus became known as the “golden era” of the Staff and Workers’ Congress (SWC), when many workers leveraged these shopfloor institutions within their enterprises to collectively manage the issues that mattered the most to their material livelihoods: distribution of housing, allocation of job opportunities for workers’ children, wages and bonuses, and improvement of welfare amenities such as canteens, nurseries, and clinics.

Practices of workplace democracy under the political opening afforded by the early post-Mao era had a profound material impact. During a quarterly SWC meeting at the Shanghai 12th Cotton Mill, for example, worker representatives raised an issue that was not on the pre-approved meeting agenda: the overcrowded and badly ventilated bathhouse for women workers. The bathhouse had been so cramped that five or six workers had to squeeze themselves under one shower during peak hours. Some workers passed out in the space. The factory leadership had known about the inadequate bathhouse for years, but they avoided improvements, prioritizing productivity over working conditions. This time, however, the SWC passed a resolution to expand and repair the women’s bathhouse, calling the managerial staff onto the stage to clarify their positions. Sure enough, the Shanghai 12th Cotton Mill eventually renovated the building.

Yet the golden era did not last long. Such practices increasingly irritated policymakers, who believed that they distracted public enterprises from addressing the more pressing issue of boosting productivity and thus contributed to the state’s persistent fiscal crisis. The worsening economic chaos in Yugoslavia made Chinese politicians mindful of the “dark side” of workers’ democracy. This culminated in a policy reversal in mid-1984 sidelining democratic institutions within factories and concentrating managerial powers in the hands of factory directors. The Party leadership still walked a tightrope. Even as they reneged on workplace democratization, they could not allow themselves to be seen to be betraying the principle that workers were the ultimate rulers of the socialist society. While the urge to discipline workers was evident in the content of the policy turn, it had to be concealed in its form, giving workers further opportunities to engage in diverse, subtle, and often surprising forms of shopfloor activism.

This led to a contradictory situation. In some places, state authorities encouraged factories to hold workers’ elections for enterprise directors before imposing reforms to concentrate managerial power. The ballots, highly symbolic but largely controlled from above, were meant to demonstrate that the impending concentration of authority enjoyed popular support. Yet in many cases workers derailed the electoral processes or used them to advance their demands. Some workers who nominated themselves to stand in the elections had been disqualified by the state, yet they continued with “illicit” campaigns, making public speeches and leafleting their colleagues, often forcing the authorities to address their grievances. Other workers disobeyed the top-down instruction to vote for the state’s favored candidates, or agitated to recall their factory directors a few months after the elections. They insisted that because workers had elected them, they should also have the power to recall them.

These moments of contention during the second half of the 1980s failed to reverse a general trend of increasing managerial despotism and power concentration across China’s urban public enterprises. Factory directors were more inclined to impose unilateral decisions without seeking workers’ input. Some nullified resolutions passed by the SWC while others adopted punitive managerial styles, imposing fines on workers for falling short of production targets or even for taking bathroom breaks. Union cadre complained that many factory directors had developed “a habit of autocracy.”

Naturally, the experience of exercising relatively robust workplace democracy for a few years and then suddenly losing this power was painful for many workers. This intensified shopfloor tensions. In addition to sporadic strikes, discontent with management produced various forms of creative everyday resistance. Workers shirked their obligations, wasted time, gossiped, piled up furniture at the factory director’s door, or even staged dirty protests on the workshop floor. In the late 1980s it became more common for workers to physically beat their factory directors, many of whom found it necessary to hire bodyguards. It was difficult to tame this unruly behavior, both because firing workers was still very difficult under the socialist property regime and as a result of the deep ideological investment in workers’ “masterly” status.

By 1989, then, China’s industrial politics had become immensely problematic. Shopfloor tensions were at boiling point, as workers expectations, conditioned by decades of socialist struggle, failed to align with the new balance of power in the factories, which had tipped in favor of the directors. This configuration created particularly fertile conditions for large-scale political activism among parts of the working class. Over those fateful weeks in May and June, workers’ discontent with their everyday conditions escalated into a fundamental critique of the Party-state bureaucracy that had centralized managerial control within enterprises — a critique culminating in a vision that could arguably be called “socialist democracy.” In the face of this, the post-Mao Party leadership’s ability to maintain popular consent broke down once and for all.

The end of the socialist worker

After 1989, the political elite entered a period of soul-searching to figure out how to reform China’s political economy in the wake of the crisis that had fundamentally shaken the Party-state. This necessarily raised the question of how to restructure China’s industrial class politics. Some politicians — retrospectively labeled “conservatives” — proposed the rollback of grassroots economic autonomy. In its place, they sought to extend bureaucratic chains of command in economic management at all levels and deploy the Party-state’s repressive apparatus to punish “petty economic crimes,” a term so broad and vague that it could be applied to virtually anything. Such measures would have built a regime of terror not dissimilar to the militarized system of political and industrial management erected in 1969–71 to rein in the volcanic rebel mobilizations of the early Cultural Revolution. Fortunately for China’s ruling elite, a solution far less laborious and politically costly was made possible by the changing tides of the global economy: the dismantling of the socialist property regime and the turn to full-blown capitalism.

The rise of capitalistic property relations accelerated after 1992, when Deng Xiaoping made a highly symbolic and well-publicized tour of Southeast China’s special economic zones in support of foreign and private capital. The Party-state repealed the policies hitherto restricting the scale of foreign investment and the size of privately owned companies. Attracted by low-cost labor and natural resources, foreign capital flocked to China to set up manufacturing operations, while large-scale domestic firms grew rapidly. As a result, new industrial hubs mushroomed across coastal China, attracting millions of migrant workers seeking employment from the country’s rural hinterlands. Unlike many urban workers in the 1980s who enjoyed relatively robust job security and could plausibly see themselves as claims-making stakeholders in their workplace communities, migrant laborers were hired hands, employed on the basis of a wage-labor relationship, subject to a labor market made despotic through unilateral managerial control, most often without any guarantee of decent working and living conditions or even timely payments.

Those employed in public enterprises also experienced dramatic changes in the 1990s and 2000s. The Party-state launched one of the most momentous privatization drives in history, with most enterprises sold to their previous managers or to outside investors, often through opaque financing and valuation practices underwritten by North Atlantic investment banks. Firms that remained partially government owned were typically restructured into publicly listed firms subject to shareholder-value expectations imposed by the capital market. These reforms created massive waves of lay-offs. Millions of workers lost their jobs, welfare entitlements, and sense of communal belonging. Those that remained in employment were often much more precarious because of new dispatching and sub-contracting arrangements. Some laid-off workers joined migrant workers in coastal China’s new industrial sweatshops; others struggled to get by in the collapsing economies of their hometowns, becoming domestic day laborers, street vendors, sex workers, scavengers, and beggars. Though the Party-state managed to push through this program in large part without relying on physical force after the events of summer 1989, these shifts nevertheless produced immense social suffering which the repressive apparatuses would now have to contain.

According to the official statistics, the proportion of the urban workforce employed in public enterprises dropped from 82 percent in 1991 to 27 percent in 2005. While it is hard to tell precisely locate these figures, there is no denying the thorough transformation of China’s industrial working class, in terms of both social composition and political character. Even though Chinese workers never actually achieved “masterly” status in the 1980s, the Party-state’s official commitment to this status enabled workers to imagine new political possibilities and fight for their realization. By contrast, since the 1990s, official discourse and public policy have treated workers as little more than those who sell their labor for a wage, a framework codified by the 1995 Labor Law. Under this arrangement, capital was able to keep the cost of labor low, solidifying China’s status as the “sweatshop of the world” for more than two decades (although the flight of manufacturing capital from China has accelerated since the late 2010s). The human cost of this labor regime has been seen in such tragedies as the fire at the Zhili Toy Factory in 1993, which claimed eighty-seven lives, and string of suicides committed by workers at the Foxconn plant in Shenzhen over the course of four months in 2010.

Workers have continued to resist this capitalistic configuration of industrial class politics. Existing research has meticulously documented the dynamics of labor strikes and protests among both workers facing lay-offs in public enterprises undergoing privatization and those demanding pay and benefits in coastal China’s private sweatshops. Yet the political horizon that informs the visions and strategies of labor resistance has been radically altered. It has become much more difficult for workers to translate their concrete grievances into a systematic critique of their workplaces and wider society. Without an institutional framework that grants workers security and defines workers and managers as more or less nominally equal members of workplace communities, labor resistance has become sporadic, fragmented, and illegal. Shopfloor contests testing the everyday balance of power between workers and managers is more muted. The working class no longer poses the kind of political-economic threat to the ruling elite that it did in the 1980s.

China’s “market reform” reconsidered

In existing scholarship and popular accounts, both inside China and further afield, the concept of “market reform” has been deployed to characterize China’s trajectory in the post-Mao era. The story of China’s economic transition was narrated as a move from a system in which economic activities were conducted under state planning and top-down command, to one in which economic actors gained increasing latitude to compete through market mechanisms. This was a move from a “planned economy” to a “market economy.” In this paradigm, the salient trend is the creation of more spheres of market activity outside state control, and hence the typical objects of analysis are grassroots merchants and entrepreneurs, foreign capitalists and experts, economic technocrats, and so on.

Yet this elevation of “market reform” as the master concept flattens out two very different kinds of industrial class politics that emerged after Mao’s rule: the unruly politics of the pre-1989 period, and the more restrictive settlement that emerged in its wake. While various policy measures since Mao’s death could all be described as market reforms, they have operated under vastly different parameters of class politics and property relations. As far as property is concerned, the decisive transformation was not simply the expansion of the market sphere, but rather the severing of ties between industrial producers and the means of production to which they had hitherto been able to lay some political claim. Recognizing the discontinuous transition between these two modes of industrial class politics demonstrates that the story of China’s post-Mao reform and economic ascent was disorderly and tumultuous, not linear or teleological.

The implications of this are far-reaching. Over the past decade, the Chinese economy has entered a slowdown, as its export-led growth engine has lost momentum due to trade wars and competition from the increased productive capacity of other countries in the global South where labor is even cheaper. Many analysts in both Chinese and anglophone discussions have argued that China’s growth strategy should now focus on increasing domestic consumption. The Chinese government’s commitment to boosting domestic consumption, however, is largely discursive, consisting of cosmetic policy measures such as handing out discount coupons and gift cards. But China’s domestic demand remains weak. The historical process outlined above helps us make sense of this predicament. The radical decline of Chinese workers’ power since the 1990s explains the absence of a political force that could have counteracted the interests of the state-capitalist elite and pushed the government to enact robust and enduring mechanisms of economic redistribution. Instead, we have a highly repressive labor regime that reinforces a dynamic of weak consumption.

The slowdown has led numerous companies to ratchet up labor intensity and squeeze costs even further to maintain profit margins. Increasingly unbearable levels of exploitation, precarity, and downward mobility have become pervasive in blue-collar and white-collar sectors alike. This has led to a notable surge of anti-capitalist sentiment in recent years, along with nostalgia for China’s socialist past, especially among students and young workers who never experienced it themselves. Yet Chinese workers still lack institutional channels to act on their grievances collectively, as the space for labor organizing continues to shrink under Xi Jinping’s reign. This contradiction between the buildup of class antagonisms and the absence of a means to express them could prove difficult to contain. These are the legacies of the transformation of China’s industrial class politics at the turn of the 1990s.

  • 1

    A series of dock-worker strikes following the establishment of Solidarity in August 1980, culminating in a four-hour national “warning” strike in March 1981 following the forcible removal of Solidarity delegates from the Polish national council. 

Sunday, May 03, 2026

A Remarkable Story


 May 1, 2026

Without a Trace…Pogrom, Sweatshop, Gulag: the Jewish Radical Odyssey of Noah and Miril London, by John D. Holmes. Leiden/Boston: Brill Publishers, 2025. 475pp., $190.00

+++

One of my favorite books from recent years has the fascinating title, The Heritage We (Don’t) Renounce: Lenin, 1870-1924. A multitude of essays from different countries and generations, across the usual lines within the Left, the book offers readers the stories of mostly middle aged men or women who, for instance, keep on their mantles the little busts of Lenin from beloved parents—as often victims of Stalinism as not. Essayists, heartfelt European, Asian, or Latin American Communists of today have their own stories, each different, but also in some sense the same.

Lenin does not go away. Neither does the Russian Revolution nor the Lenin text with the famous evocative title, The Right of Nations to Self-Determination, aka the Global South manifesto. That is: the narrative holds, in spite of all disappointments and betrayals, now more than a century from those “Six Days That Shook the World.”

The volume under review, reflecting the painstaking, decades-long work of the protagonists’ nephew— himself a longtime Left activist—is definitely of a piece with this larger story.It offers a fascinating angle, or rather a number of angles, intertwined with the biographies of the idealistic, doomed revolutionary couple.

One of the angles closest to the reviewer is the intense world of left-wing Yiddishkayt, the culture of the Jewish diaspora destroyed by the Holocaust, by assimilation, and by the forcible demotion of the Yiddish language (the most spoken language of Jews in 1940) within Israel. Yiddish revolutionaries in that bygone era struggled, by the tens of thousands, within their own culture. Your reviewer was fortunate enough to interview (and archive the interviews) many of them in their final years.

The other angle, more central to the text itself, reflects a little-understood quality of the Stalinization of the USSR during the 1920s and 1930s. The failure of the world revolution, forcing the new Russian regime in upon itself, created a new bureaucratic class. To view them as autocratic monsters (a favorite ploy of anti-communists) misses a crucial point and one that, alone, would make this volume valuable, even beyond its biographical virtues.

Russia, an “underdeveloped country” of extraordinary size, resources and diversities of all kinds, needed a supervisory but also technological class to survive, let alone grow its economy and post-Czarist civil society. As the working class’s influence slipped away, this class became ever more important. Yesterday’s revolutionary agitator sometimes became today’s Soviet engineer, “building socialism.” In a capitalist world seeking to overthrow the Russian project, it seemed like a good compromise.

Without a Trace is a saga of enthusiastic, Yiddish-Jewish Communists who returned disastrously and were lost in Stalin’s gulag. But tragedy is not the leading note! Himself an avowed revolutionary of the Original Bolshevik type, Holmes has his own narrative that begins with how the book emerged. His father collected an unpublished memoir from another member of the family. The document was passed on to John, who also found Noah’s writings and his role in the early years of the US Communist movement, especially in the Yiddish-language sector, crucial in Greater New York.

Traveling to Eastern Europe, uncovering layer after layer of evidence in the hopeless degeneration of the” New Russia,” Holmes provides precious insights while trying not to overdraw his conclusions. And, by the way, here we come to the “Jewish Question,” with a fascinating quote from one Yuri Slezkind, in The Jewish Century: “modernization is about everyone becoming urban, mobile, literate, articulate…Modernization, in other words, is about everyone becoming Jewish.” (p.7)

Surely not! But Jewish modernists, from revolutionary politics to revolutionary art, were surely present in and around exciting developments in Europe, the US and even…Argentina. Meanwhile, anti-Semitism, a phrase thrown around these days against anyone criticizing the vast, destructive acts of the Jewish State, offered a rising bureaucratic class in post-revolution Russia an excuse to use state power ruthlessly. If the Revolution failed, someone had to be blamed. Stalin mistreated many nationalities, of course. Jews, close at hand in Bolshevism, offered him a special target.

Catch this trajectory if you can: East European Jews, spreading to the diaspora, became leading internationalists under the Communist banner even as the deterioration of the Revolution deepened in Russia and, by Holmes’ account, also within the US Communist movement. Somehow these realities existed side by side, along with a whole lot of denial.

Noah London, from a modestly successful family in the impoverished Jewish life of Belarus (then Lithuania), received instruction in Torah, Yiddish grammar, Russian fluency, and rudimentary math. His future wife Miril came from a prosperous merchant family in the same district. Her own experience in a trade school introduced her to student radicals. Noah arrived in Vilna (“the Jerusalem of Eastern Europe”) not long after the notorious Kishinev Pogroms crushed and persecuted radicals but prompted many others to join the struggle.

The Jewish Bund commanded the loyalty of thousands of young Jews in Lithuania. And in being crushed, coming back to life (mainly in Poland), giving thousands an experience that they carried into the Communist parties.

The subsequent detail of Noah and Miri coming to the US, Noah’s engagement in the Communist Party at the highest levels, their return to the Soviet Union, their work and their persecution under Stalin, is too much for the reviewer to relate, even in condensed form. The reader willing to plough through the details will find the fruits of immense, almost incredible detail. And the author’s stern condemnation of Russia’s fall from Lenin’s Bolshevism.

Much of the crucial, dramatic material in the book takes place…in the Ukraine! Here, a large portion of Eastern European Jewry lived, amid desperately needed natural resources. Stalinization found political functionaries looking for imagined “sabotage.” As the author explains, the USSR simply did not have the available resources, a condition made worse by bureaucratic stumbling. Stalin’s fallback, a purge of the “kulaks,” was a disaster that anticipated the popular participation of non-Jewish Ukrainians in the mass murder of Jews, with the direction and participation of the German Wehrmacht.

Holmes brilliantly explains that the growing disappointment and rage of Russian working men and women found an object in local Party leaders, who as specialists, often “outsiders” to their adopted communities and perhaps as mistrusted Jews, could be blamed….and purged.

Noah London, accused ridiculously of sabotaging the construction of a water system, then accused of recruiting other engineers, was sentenced to death. His wife Miril, sentenced to an eight-year stretch in Kazakhstan, survived the war to live outside Moscow with a sister. Learning about the death of her husband years after the fact, she committed suicide in 1949. She was rehabilitated posthumously, at the end of the Soviet era, a few years after Noah’s vindication.

Here is another deviation that Noah London did not live long enough in the US to see: despite the fall of Russia to Stalinism, the Popular Front, most especially in the US, was great! Or the participants certainly thought so. It stayed far from Bolshevism but embraced the leftward edge of the New Deal, and it helped shape the leftish theater, films, and music that emerged and excited wide audiences. Linked to Roosevelt and the Second New Deal, it legitimized industrial unionism, even as—until the death of FDR—the most sweeping and democratic unionism was led by Reds and their allies. It even transformed Hollywood for a while, or at least led to the unionization of writers and actors, a plethora of antifascist films that led to Hollywood’s art film era, and even the earliest serious scholarship on films from within the US. How does this weigh with or against the betrayal of Leninism by Stalin? We still await an answer. Happily, this volume will be reprinted in paper next year at a much lower price.

Paul Buhle is a retired historian, and co-founder, with Scott Molloy, of an oral history project on blue collar Rhode Islanders.

Saturday, February 28, 2026

At Milan Fashion Week, industry’s darker side goes unmentioned


By AFP
February 27, 2026


As part of its fashion show in Milan, Tod's had artisans in white coats showing off its trademark leatherwork - Copyright AFP MIGUEL MEDINA


Alexandria SAGE

Artisans in white coats greeted guests at the Tod’s fashion show in Milan Friday, crafting the Made in Italy leather and needlework items for which the company — and country — is renowned.

But despite that display of handcraft, there has been little mention at Milan Fashion Week of some of the industry’s forgotten workers — whom prosecutors found were working in sweatshop conditions at subcontractors for many Italian luxury brands, including Tod’s.

With the glamorous catwalks, celebrities and excess of finery on display, the possibility of the recent investigations uncovering labour abuses being on anyone’s mind appeared slim.

After the show, Tod’s founder and chairman Diego Della Valle told AFP the company’s decision to highlight its artisanal heritage was in no way linked to the recent investigations.

“No controversy — I think we’ll do good things together with the courts and trade associations. I think we’re on the right track,” Della Valle said.

On Tuesday, Tod’s submitted to a Milan court a list of measures it was undertaking to reinforce its supply chain, including the creation of a platform to better trace supplier activity and expanded audits.

“I think that by working together like this, everyone will be involved in finding a solution,” he said, adding that Italy’s laws needed revising “to protect people and artisans”.



– ‘Product first’ –



Many international guests at the show had not heard mention of the accusations of migrant labour exploitation levelled last year at over a dozen of luxury’s biggest names, including Gucci, Loro Piana, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Ferragamo.

Allegations include around-the-clock working hours and substandard pay, breaches of safety measures and makeshift sleeping areas inside small workshops.

Asked whether it would matter to the luxury consumer, the vice president and fashion director at Nordstrom, Rickie De Sole, suggested the answer might be yes and no.

“I think the integrity of Made in Italy is incredibly important and I think that at the end of the day, to the customer, it’s product first, right?” she told AFP.

Influential fashion critic and journalist Suzy Menkes, sitting in the front row, cautioned that she hadn’t followed the cases in Italy but said “people do care when there are specific things that have come to light”.

“But I don’t think it’s any different from food and various other things, where one hopes that the bigger the company is, that the more they’re serious about it.”

A Hong Kong content creator dressed head to toe in Tod’s, 26-year-old Stephanie Hui, said people were “desensitised” to stories of sweatshop conditions in the fashion industry, with consumers feeling powerless to effect change.

“It takes a lot of people to band together to like really make a change. It’s not really in our control, but definitely I think if consumers stop spending as much they’ll kind of give the brands a wake-up call,” she said.



– ‘Want to be seen’ –



Fashion industry insiders say that controlling every link in the supply chain is more complicated the bigger the company.

Stefano Aimone, CEO and creative director of Agnona, told AFP in an interview this that it depends on the company’s scale.

“When you’re smaller, you have more control and can really check and know all your employees and consultants by name. When you’re dealing with 400, they’re just numbers, and it’s unthinkable to control everything,” he said.

“Something will slip through regardless, because even if you have contracts with such-and-such subcontractor, you don’t know what they then do in turn,” said Aimone.

Asked whether fashion customers paid attention, Aimone said that despite some headlines, it remained “a B (business) to B (business) issue”.

“The end customer doesn’t know.”

And even if supply chains were better known, the customer might not care, said Iuliana Stetco, 21, a fashion marketing student in Milan.

“They want to be seen, they want to be seen wearing a certain type of brand, a certain label, and so as a result they don’t care much.”

Sunday, February 15, 2026

 

Everyone Is Allowed To Protest


Tied up with the apparently very longstanding tradition of claiming that all opponents of atrocities are purely engaged in what has recently been called “virtue signaling” is the idea that only certain types of people are qualified to protest certain things — or to ever say or do anything decent at all.



Columbia University professor Bruce Robbins exposed his students to possible criticism of the Israeli military, and was, for that reason, declared by his employer guilty of discrimination and harassment. Robbins could have written a book on the absurdities involved in defining criticism of genocide as discrimination, and defining criticism of any military on Earth other than the Israeli military as not discrimination. Instead, in Who’s Allowed to Protest?, he has written a debunking of some other absurd rejections of protesting.

If you don’t read grotesque rightwing columnists or watch television “news,” you may question the need for what Robbins has done. But his book traces the centuries-long history of some of the ludicrous arguments involved, managing to suggest that they have played a greater role in our society than might be clear from the New York Times editorial page alone.

The book opens by looking at the claim that those who protest genocide in Gaza do so purely in order to make themselves look good, and not at all because they care about other human beings. If one were to accept that idea, then, presumably, it would follow that every peace demonstration against a distant war, every protest of a distant sweatshop, every effort to preserve livable ecosystems for future generations, and a huge percentage of all activist campaigns ever, back to opposition in Britain to slavery in the Caribbean and beyond, has been entirely sociopathic posturing.

It strikes me as absurd to suggest that a human action of this sort (protesting mass killing) could have only one simple motivation for every person engaged in it. The wars being protested by peace demonstrations often have dozens of motivations, even in the same individual. Our political system generally consists of switching back-and-forth between a government that tells you it’s going to bomb people for their own good and a government that tells you it’s going to bomb people because they aren’t people. But regardless of the emphasis, both of those arguments and many others, stated and unstated, accompany every war. How could everyone’s opposition to such wars be uniform? How could no one oppose what wars do to the budgets for useful things? How could no one oppose what wars do to the rule of law? How could no one oppose what wars do to the natural environment? Etc., etc. Actual peace rallies in the real world often struggle with deep divisions, including between those who oppose all sides of all wars and those who cheer for the other side of some war. If these deeply divided people were all just posturing, then presumably they would have all landed together on whichever was the grandest posture.

And it strikes me as incoherent to suppose that one can make oneself look good by protesting war in a society where no one else actually cares about protesting war and consequently where no one else is going to actually think you look good.

But what, after all, is wrong with trying to make oneself look good by conspicuously opposing mass murder? Don’t we want a society in which everyone competes with everyone else at most effectively and determinately opposing mass murder? And, in a so-called representative democracy, isn’t the ideal elected official, in the ideal public arena, one who can be moved by public sentiment and agitation to oppose mass murder, even though in their heart of hearts they really don’t want to? Isn’t that the absolute ideal?

I’m reminded of something that David Hume wrote many years ago, which I think stands on its own merits to this day, quite apart from Hume’s belief in numerous absurdities, including racism and just empires. Hume wrote:

“There are two things which have led astray those philosophers that have insisted so much on the selfishness of man. In the first place, they found that every act of virtue or friendship was attended with a secret pleasure; whence they concluded, that friendship and virtue could not be disinterested. But the fallacy of this is obvious. The virtuous sentiment or passion produces the pleasure, and does not arise from it. I feel a pleasure in doing good to my friend, because I love him; but do not love him for the sake of that pleasure.

“In the second place, it has always been found, that the virtuous are far from being indifferent to praise; and therefore they have been represented as a set of vainglorious men, who had nothing in view but the applauses of others. But this also is a fallacy. It is very unjust in the world, when they find any tincture of vanity in a laudable action, to depreciate it upon that account, or ascribe it entirely to that motive. The case is not the same with vanity, as with other passions. Where avarice or revenge enters into any seemingly virtuous action, it is difficult for us to determine how far it enters, and it is natural to suppose it the sole actuating principle. But vanity is so closely allied to virtue, and to love the fame of laudable actions approaches so near the love of laudable actions for their own sake, that these passions are more capable of mixture, than any other kinds of affection; and it is almost impossible to have the latter without some degree of the former. Accordingly we find, that this passion for glory is always warped and varied according to the particular taste or disposition of the mind on which it falls. Nero had the same vanity in driving a chariot, that Trajan had in governing the empire with justice and ability. To love the glory of virtuous deeds is a sure proof of the love of virtue.”

In other words, assuming that those who viciously oppose protests of genocide and cheer for violent assaults against protesters actually have in mind a superior sort of genocide protester, can we really be supposed to imagine that such an ideal protester should be indifferent to praise? Have many people ever been found who were indifferent to praise? One can be not indifferent to praise without being dependent on others to act, without being incapable of making one’s own judgments, without seeking to name every public building after oneself or compel Nobel prize winners to hand over their medals. To be completely indifferent to praise seems outrageously extreme as a requirement for any protester to be to any degree actually interested in what they are protesting.

But perhaps some protesters are fairly indifferent to praise. We cannot ask every anonymous donor to a cause, or any unnamed source in a report, whether they’d like to be thanked. But those whom I do know and who ask not to be thanked for their efforts for peace, or who show up at rallies in masks, do not all seek anonymity out of fear. Those willing to be seen and named, however, must set aside the fear of repercussions — it’s not all rewards and glory.

Tied up with the apparently very longstanding tradition of claiming that all opponents of atrocities are purely engaged in what has recently been called “virtue signaling” is the idea that only certain types of people are qualified to protest certain things — or to ever say or do anything decent at all. Perhaps because the critic is himself greedy and unimaginative, the criticism is produced that says only poor people can oppose poverty, and only someone in a racial minority can oppose racism. Etc. Robbins questions the current concept of “checking one’s privilege” when it is used to suggest a problem, not with being racist or sexist, but with being “white” or male. Of course, “check your privilege” can be used in countless ways, including as a way of asking verbose, articulate people to shut up for a minute and let someone else have a chance to talk, etc.

But the notion that many millions of people are “privileged,” and therefore cannot protest injustice without hypocrisy, not only profiles people unfairly and distracts from the small number of plutocrats leading the destruction of all that is good, but also dooms us to a catastrophic shortage of protesters. Or it would, if we were to listen to it. And wouldn’t we want protests of wars with hypocrisy over no protests of wars?!

Robbins examines the notion of an “elite” that is not of wealth or power, but a cultural elite. By now, we’re probably all familiar with the ploy of telling poor people to vote for billionaires in order to vote against some vaguely conceived, cultural and intellectual elite — even if it leaves them and the rest of us all worse off. Robbins points out that columnists like David Brooks, much to the bewilderment of long-time peace agitators, actually claim that students protesting a genocide are simply trying to gain entrance to or maintain their status in a supposed elite.

Robbins interrogates claims of privileged and unprivileged statuses, exposing the wealth of the critics of privilege, noting that the working class in a wealthy country can globally be an elite. In the end, he wants money, wherever it came from, put to good causes. I agree. All money should be redirected to good work if it’s done without strings attached. And the good work of protesting injustice should be rewarded. More protesters should be “paid protesters,” and we should recognize with Robbins that the notion of an unpaid intellectual was a notion based on hoarded wealth, as the Olympic notion of the unpaid athlete was a notion based on excluding those who needed to be paid if they were going to play at sports all day.

Robbins celebrates student protesters of war. I agree. But I’m less sure of his references to the “responsibility of intellectuals” — the responsibility of those capable of recognizing a genocide to protest it. Millions of people who’ve never set foot on a college campus but have access to social media have recognized a genocide. We should be deeply grateful to those who apply their scholarship to their work for peace, but I wouldn’t sell anyone short or let anyone off the hook.

RootsAction Education Fund will be holding an online book club on April 1 at 5 p.m. PT / 8 p.m. ET with Bruce Robbins, author of Who’s Allowed to Protest? The event is free, but it’s up to you to buy the book or borrow it from a friend or library, then show up and ask questions!

Originally appeared on https://progressivehub.net/everyone-is-allowed-to-protest/

David Swanson is an author, activist, journalist, and radio host. He is director of WorldBeyondWar.org and campaign coordinator for RootsAction.org. Swanson's books include War Is A Lie. He blogs at DavidSwanson.org and War Is a Crime.org. He hosts Talk Nation Radio. Follow him on Twitter: @davidcnswanson and FaceBookRead other articles by David.