Helena Smith in Athens
Sun, 21 April 2024
Lord Byron, a national hero for Greeks, far removed from ‘mad, bad and dangerous to know’.
On Wednesday 18 August 1880, a sale was held at Sotheby’s in London. Among the items up for grabs were “interesting relics of Lord Byron”. The articles, once the property of Augusta Leigh, the poet’s half-sister, included the crown of Greek laurel placed on the aristocrat’s coffin “when laying in state” in Great George Street.
Joannes Gennadius, a diplomat-cum-scholar born and raised in Athens, ensured he was there. Fifty-six years had elapsed since the great Romantic poet died on 19 April 1824 in Missolonghi, spearheading the Greeks’ revolt against Ottoman rule.
Raised by his patriot father on Byron’s legendary contribution to the cause, Gennadius successfully contrived to outdo his fellow bidders. It would be the start of a formidable collection of Byroniana that today includes a lock of the peer’s distinctly auburn hair – cut by his distraught valet, William Fletcher as his master lay on his deathbed – rare manuscripts, Byron’s gold watch, paintings and a fragment of the Scottish plaid cloak Byron, then Europe’s most celebrated writer, wore in Missolonghi.
Last week, as Greece marked the bicentenary of Byron’s death, the artefacts brought an air of excitement to the august reading room of the library that Gennadius, who would become one of the country’s foremost benefactors, bequeathed to the American School of Classical studies at Athens.
For Alicia E Stallings, Oxford University’s professor of poetry, laying eyes on objects once so intimate to the poet was tantamount to being “at one remove” from him and nothing short of “thrilling”.
“I think it’s very important they’ve ended up in Greece,” said the American who, long based in Athens where she has written several acclaimed books of verse, has found herself “inevitably” thinking about Byron and his relationship with the nation he would ultimately sacrifice his life for. “There’s little sense or understanding [abroad] of how important he was to Greece. I often find myself having to explain that it’s not a celebrity stunt, it’s no joke, that the gravity of the appreciation [for him] is genuine.”
On Friday – exactly 200 years after Byron succumbed to fever barely 100 days after arriving in the land whose liberty he had championed so vociferously – it was an appreciation that the Greeks went out of their way to display. With a pomp usually afforded visiting dignitaries, a brass band performed next to a guard of honour outside the Athens parliament as officials laid wreaths before the tomb of the unknown soldier to commemorate foreign philhellenes, starting with Byron, whose support, courage and influence were key to the war’s eventual success.
Byron may not have fought but he gave us his everything, he gave us his life.
Alexis Sotiropoulos, mayor of Vyronas
In Missolonghi, scene of an unprecedented “homage” to the poet, celebrations ranged from exhibition openings to the world premiere of The Last Days of Byron, an opera commissioned by Oxford’s Institute for Digital Archaeology.
Greece’s war of independence was brutal. More than 350 soldiers from Europe and America are believed to have died on the battlefield at the hands of the Ottomans. Raised on the classics, most despaired at the calamitous state the Orthodox Christians had been reduced to by centuries of Ottoman rule.
For Alexis Sotiropoulos, mayor of Vyronas, the Athenian suburb named after the poet, that Byron should die before he could prove himself in battle – fever took hold as he was about to lead troops out of the malaria-ridden town – matters little.
In a country where nearly every city has a street named after the Englishman and many men are called Vyrona in his honour, the hero’s status remains undisputed. “Byron may not have fought but he gave us his everything, he gave us his life,” the mayor explained, a bust of the poet perched behind him in an office brimming with flags, bags and mugs emblazoned with Byron’s silhouette. “In life it’s all about what you leave behind, and ultimately he left behind a free Greece. Without him it might not have happened.”
The revolutionary spirit that led Byron into the marshes of Missolonghi – propelled by a valour hailed by those who accompanied him on the doomed expedition – was much bigger than the whiff of scandal that pushed him into self-exile or any of his flaws, said the soft-spoken Sotiropoulos. “Perhaps he had weaknesses,” he mused. “But he was a democrat, ahead of his time, a man of unimpeachable ideals. We are forever grateful.”
Historians believe that had it not been for Byron’s generosity or influence, London might never have consented to the loans so badly needed by the provisional government in Greece. His own support – parting with a huge amount of his fortune to underwrite the war effort – while backing the pro-western polyglot Alexandros Mavrokordatos at a time when the uprising was plagued by factional intrigues, is seen as crucial in the creation of the modern nation state.
In England, where the rebel poet is best remembered as being “mad, bad and dangerous to know” – the inimitable putdown uttered by his spurned lover, Lady Caroline Lamb – it is a political role that is often overlooked.
But the commemorative events marking the milestone anniversary also offer opportunity for reappraisal, says Roderick Beaton, emeritus professor of Modern Greek at King’s College London and the author of Byron’s War, the definitive account of his involvement in the revolution.
“There’s a huge mismatch in the way he is remembered in the UK and Greece,” the academic noted, lamenting that most of Byron’s poetry, like his surviving correspondence, had “astonishingly” never been translated into Greek.
“In this anniversary there’s a great opportunity for the Greeks to get to know him better as a poet, and for the Brits to open up beyond the clichés, and taint of scandal, to see Byron’s contribution to the creation of a European nation state. It’s important because he really is part of the story and the self-identity of Greece.”
Byron and Brexit: Why Greeks will always love the British
Heidi Fuller-Love
THE TELEGRAPH
Sun, 21 April 2024
Tourists from the UK are always welcome in Greece, locals tell The Telegraph - Getty/E+
While anti-tourist protests have become a feature in many of our favourite holiday destinations – particularly in Spain – Britons hoping for a warm welcome this summer should look no further than Greece.
The country, in which I’ve lived for 15 years, is known for its filoxenia (love of the stranger), but Brits have long been treated especially well – ever since, exactly 200 years ago, O Vyronas (better known as Lord Byron) died of malaria in Missolonghi while waiting to join the struggle to liberate Greece from the Ottoman Turks. Not even the long-running spat over Elgin’s Marbles, nor the long shadow cast by Churchill’s decision to turn on the Greek partisans in 1944, seem able to dent the centuries-old affection that links the two nations.
“It’s incredible how Greece adopted and still respects Byron so much,” says Georgios Papadopoulos, whose family is from near Missolonghi. “Few other countries can boast such a respected national hero who is not of their own nationality. It is one of the reasons why we still love the British today.”
Lord Byron fell in love with Greece on his firts trip to the country in 1809 - Universal Images/Getty
Like many of today’s travellers, Byron fell in love on his first trip to Greece in 1809, not only with Teresa Makri, the so-called “Maid of Athens”, but with the Greeks themselves, whose customs and traditions he greatly admired. His death sparked a wave of philhellenism around the world, helping ensure Britain a special place in Greek hearts. In an 1862 referendum, nearly 40 years after the death of Byron, 95 per cent of Greeks even voted in favour of installing Queen Victoria’s second son Prince Alfred as their monarch, after a revolt deposed Bavarian King Otto.
The bond was cemented in the Second World War, when Britain was one of Greece’s closest allies. Even today, if you enter a traditional kafenion and mention Patrick Leigh Fermor, the SOE officer who hid in the highlands of Crete as he helped to organise the Greek resistance, you’ll probably be invited to toast the British war hero’s memory with a punch-packing tumbler of raki.
British war hero Patrick Leigh Fermor is still toasted in Greece - Hulton Archive/Getty
True, the UK’s reputation has been tarnished somewhat in recent years by booze-fuelled antics in places like Malia and Kavos, but Brit-bashing in Greece is still rare.
“British tourists are still quite popular here, and since the Covid pandemic locals actually value the British even more,” says English teacher Enid Monica-Robinson from Loughborough, who lives on Skiathos, a ferry-hop from Mamma Mia! island Skopelos.
It was telling that, even as other countries were imposing strict rules on British visitors during the dark days of the pandemic, Greece kept the door open to UK arrivals.
Furthermore, Greeks, many of whom hankered for “Grexit” after a “no” vote in the 2015 bailout referendum was ignored, generally sympathise with Britain’s collective decision to leave the EU. “Wages were reduced to nothing during our economic crisis and pensions were slashed by more than half – even though it was often grandparents who had to support their entire family because there was so much unemployment,” says Manolis Papadakis, who works in a bar in Heraklion. “We were very angry, so we understood why Britain wanted Brexit.”
Last year, some 4.5 million UK tourists flocked to swim from Greek beaches and sup Mythos beer in its tavernas. However, while demonstrations are becoming regular occurrences in Mallorca and the Canary Islands, protests against tourists are almost unheard of in Greece. Even during the so-called “Beach Towels Movement” last year, when locals protested about beaches being swamped by sunbeds, Greeks praised British tourists for their support. “British visitors… realise that we are committed to safeguarding our island’s authentic character and contributing to its sustainable future,” said Nicolas Stephanou, a member of the Paros Citizens’ Movement for Free Beaches.
'Even in Santorini and other over-touristed hotspots it's rare to hear a bad word said against the British,' says Eleni Balatsas - Digital Vision/Getty
A far cry from recent events in Tenerife and Amsterdam, where Britons have been vociferously told to “go home” and “stay away”, Greece is even offering 25,000 “free” holidays to those whose stays were cut short by the wildfires in Rhodes last year – more than half of whom were British. “We want travellers to return to the island to enjoy its natural beauty,” PM Kyriakos Mitsotakis said while launching Rodos Week, a scheme which grants vouchers of up to €500 (£430) to visitors affected by the blaze.
“Even in Santorini and other over-touristed hotspots it’s rare to hear a bad word said against the British,” says teacher Eleni Balatsas, who lives in Piraeus. “Shunning a certain group of people who have contributed so much to our economy is not a good idea – it’s actually an ungrateful thing to do.”
Georgios Kaloutsakis, who owns luxury resort Abaton Island on Crete, agrees. “Greeks cherish the profound admiration the British hold for our culture and civilization,” he said. “Today, the bond is reinforced by King Charles’s affection for Greece, as evidenced by his ‘Greek Flag’ ties, which have sparked tremendous enthusiasm within the Greek media. This mutual appreciation fosters a deep and enduring friendship between our nations.”
Sun, 21 April 2024
Tourists from the UK are always welcome in Greece, locals tell The Telegraph - Getty/E+
While anti-tourist protests have become a feature in many of our favourite holiday destinations – particularly in Spain – Britons hoping for a warm welcome this summer should look no further than Greece.
The country, in which I’ve lived for 15 years, is known for its filoxenia (love of the stranger), but Brits have long been treated especially well – ever since, exactly 200 years ago, O Vyronas (better known as Lord Byron) died of malaria in Missolonghi while waiting to join the struggle to liberate Greece from the Ottoman Turks. Not even the long-running spat over Elgin’s Marbles, nor the long shadow cast by Churchill’s decision to turn on the Greek partisans in 1944, seem able to dent the centuries-old affection that links the two nations.
“It’s incredible how Greece adopted and still respects Byron so much,” says Georgios Papadopoulos, whose family is from near Missolonghi. “Few other countries can boast such a respected national hero who is not of their own nationality. It is one of the reasons why we still love the British today.”
Lord Byron fell in love with Greece on his firts trip to the country in 1809 - Universal Images/Getty
Like many of today’s travellers, Byron fell in love on his first trip to Greece in 1809, not only with Teresa Makri, the so-called “Maid of Athens”, but with the Greeks themselves, whose customs and traditions he greatly admired. His death sparked a wave of philhellenism around the world, helping ensure Britain a special place in Greek hearts. In an 1862 referendum, nearly 40 years after the death of Byron, 95 per cent of Greeks even voted in favour of installing Queen Victoria’s second son Prince Alfred as their monarch, after a revolt deposed Bavarian King Otto.
The bond was cemented in the Second World War, when Britain was one of Greece’s closest allies. Even today, if you enter a traditional kafenion and mention Patrick Leigh Fermor, the SOE officer who hid in the highlands of Crete as he helped to organise the Greek resistance, you’ll probably be invited to toast the British war hero’s memory with a punch-packing tumbler of raki.
British war hero Patrick Leigh Fermor is still toasted in Greece - Hulton Archive/Getty
True, the UK’s reputation has been tarnished somewhat in recent years by booze-fuelled antics in places like Malia and Kavos, but Brit-bashing in Greece is still rare.
“British tourists are still quite popular here, and since the Covid pandemic locals actually value the British even more,” says English teacher Enid Monica-Robinson from Loughborough, who lives on Skiathos, a ferry-hop from Mamma Mia! island Skopelos.
It was telling that, even as other countries were imposing strict rules on British visitors during the dark days of the pandemic, Greece kept the door open to UK arrivals.
Furthermore, Greeks, many of whom hankered for “Grexit” after a “no” vote in the 2015 bailout referendum was ignored, generally sympathise with Britain’s collective decision to leave the EU. “Wages were reduced to nothing during our economic crisis and pensions were slashed by more than half – even though it was often grandparents who had to support their entire family because there was so much unemployment,” says Manolis Papadakis, who works in a bar in Heraklion. “We were very angry, so we understood why Britain wanted Brexit.”
Last year, some 4.5 million UK tourists flocked to swim from Greek beaches and sup Mythos beer in its tavernas. However, while demonstrations are becoming regular occurrences in Mallorca and the Canary Islands, protests against tourists are almost unheard of in Greece. Even during the so-called “Beach Towels Movement” last year, when locals protested about beaches being swamped by sunbeds, Greeks praised British tourists for their support. “British visitors… realise that we are committed to safeguarding our island’s authentic character and contributing to its sustainable future,” said Nicolas Stephanou, a member of the Paros Citizens’ Movement for Free Beaches.
'Even in Santorini and other over-touristed hotspots it's rare to hear a bad word said against the British,' says Eleni Balatsas - Digital Vision/Getty
A far cry from recent events in Tenerife and Amsterdam, where Britons have been vociferously told to “go home” and “stay away”, Greece is even offering 25,000 “free” holidays to those whose stays were cut short by the wildfires in Rhodes last year – more than half of whom were British. “We want travellers to return to the island to enjoy its natural beauty,” PM Kyriakos Mitsotakis said while launching Rodos Week, a scheme which grants vouchers of up to €500 (£430) to visitors affected by the blaze.
“Even in Santorini and other over-touristed hotspots it’s rare to hear a bad word said against the British,” says teacher Eleni Balatsas, who lives in Piraeus. “Shunning a certain group of people who have contributed so much to our economy is not a good idea – it’s actually an ungrateful thing to do.”
Georgios Kaloutsakis, who owns luxury resort Abaton Island on Crete, agrees. “Greeks cherish the profound admiration the British hold for our culture and civilization,” he said. “Today, the bond is reinforced by King Charles’s affection for Greece, as evidenced by his ‘Greek Flag’ ties, which have sparked tremendous enthusiasm within the Greek media. This mutual appreciation fosters a deep and enduring friendship between our nations.”
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