Green chemistry for sustainable personal care
KeAi Communications Co., Ltd.
A recent review in the Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology examined microbial biosurfactants as sustainable alternatives to synthetic surfactants in shampoo formulations. The authors, from Bhupal Nobles’ University in India, addressed the growing demand for environmentally friendly and dermatologically safe cleansing agents, and emphasized the need to transition from petrochemical-based ingredients such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) to biodegradable biosurfactants.
“Traditional surfactants like SLS and SLES are effective cleansers but raise major concerns due to poor biodegradability, aquatic toxicity, and high irritation potential. They disrupt aquatic ecosystems and can produce harmful byproducts, prompting the cosmetics industry to seek greener alternatives,” explains lead and corresponding author Shaziya Yasmeen Sayeed. “Biosurfactants produced by microorganisms through fermentation are amphiphilic molecules that reduce surface and interfacial tension while offering improved environmental compatibility. Among them, rhamnolipids and sophorolipids are the most promising for personal care due to their strong surface activity, mildness, and high biodegradability.”
The authors found that rhamnolipids and sophorolipids achieved 85–95% sebum removal efficiency, retained over 75% foam volume, and biodegraded within 7–14 days at rates up to 95% —qualities that greatly surpassing synthetic counterparts.” Importantly, their irritation index remains below 1.0, and they cause less than 10% protein loss in skin models, compared with the 40% protein denaturation caused by SLS. These results confirm their suitability for sensitive skin and microbiome-friendly shampoo applications,” adds Sayeed.
Nonetheless, the adoption of biosurfactants faces challenges. Notably, their production cost (US$20–40/kg) is much higher than that of petrochemical surfactants, and their physicochemical stability can be affected by pH and ionic conditions.
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Contact the author:
Shaziya Yasmeen Sayeed, Bhupal Nobles' College of Pharmacy, Bhupal Nobles' University, Udaipur 313002, India
shaziya.sy@gmail.com
The publisher KeAi was established by Elsevier and China Science Publishing & Media Ltd to unfold quality research globally. In 2013, our focus shifted to open access publishing. We now proudly publish more than 200 world-class, open access, English language journals, spanning all scientific disciplines. Many of these are titles we publish in partnership with prestigious societies and academic institutions, such as the National Natural Science Foundation of China (NSFC).
Journal
Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology
Method of Research
Literature review
Subject of Research
Not applicable
Article Title
Eco-friendly biosurfactants in shampoo: Green chemistry innovations for sustainable personal care
Enhancing efficacy and stability of nanoemulsions in cosmetics
KeAi Communications Co., Ltd.
image:
Fig. 1. Components of oil-in-water (O/W) nanoemulsion. Created by the author with BioRender.com
view moreCredit: Enes Deveci
A recent review in the Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology examined the efficacy and stability of nanoemulsions in cosmetics. Nanoemulsions are nanoscale dispersions of oil and water stabilized by surfactants, typically ranging between 20 and 200 nm in droplet size. They exhibit kinetic stability, resisting phase separation and maintaining uniformity over extended periods. These systems can be prepared using high-energy techniques such as ultrasonication or homogenization, and low-energy methods like phase inversion temperature. The small droplet size contributes to enhanced optical clarity, greater surface area, and superior interaction with skin barriers — making them especially suitable for cosmetic applications.
In cosmetic formulations, nanoemulsions serve as efficient carriers for active ingredients, enabling deeper skin penetration and improved bioavailability. Their stability prevents degradation of sensitive compounds such as vitamins and antioxidants, thus maintaining product efficacy. Furthermore, nanoemulsions provide sustained release of actives, ensuring prolonged effects and reducing the need for frequent application. These attributes make them highly desirable for developing anti-aging creams, sunscreens, and moisturizing formulations.
Further, the versatility of nanoemulsions allows encapsulation of both hydrophilic and lipophilic compounds, thereby broadening their potential use. Their compatibility with biocompatible and non-toxic materials enhances their safety profile, making them suitable for sensitive skin and long-term use.
“Apart from those qualities, translucent appearance of nanoemulsion enhances the aesthetic appeal of cosmetic products, aligning with modern consumer expectations for clean and elegant formulations,” shares so author of the review Enes Deveci.
The review also highlights the challenges associated with large-scale production, stability under fluctuating temperatures, and compliance with safety regulations. The author emphasizes the need for systematic evaluation of formulation variables—such as surfactant type, oil phase ratio, and preparation technique—and how these parameters influence skin penetration, release kinetics, and overall efficacy.
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The publisher KeAi was established by Elsevier and China Science Publishing & Media Ltd to unfold quality research globally. In 2013, our focus shifted to open access publishing. We now proudly publish more than 200 world-class, open access, English language journals, spanning all scientific disciplines. Many of these are titles we publish in partnership with prestigious societies and academic institutions, such as the National Natural Science Foundation of China (NSFC).
Fig. 2. Schematic illustration of the primary stability mechanisms in nanoemulsions. Created by the author with BioRender.com. (A) Steric and/or electrostatic repulsion provided by the surfactant layer prevents droplet coalescence by creating a repulsive barrier between approaching droplets. (B) The constant and random Brownian motion of the nano-sized droplets overcomes the force of gravity, preventing creaming or sedimentation and ensuring long-term physical stability.
Credit
Enes Deveci
Journal
Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology
Method of Research
Literature review
Subject of Research
Not applicable
Article Title
Nanoemulsions in cosmetics: Enhancing efficacy and stability
COI Statement
The author declares that there is no conflict of interest regarding the publication of this paper.
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