Japan landed fewer autumn salmon between August 1 and September 30 than in any comparable period since at least 1989, with the haul down by roughly 30% year on year, The Yomiuri Shimbun reported on November 4. Prices for the fish and its roe have climbed sharply, alarming seafood retailers and restaurants.
Hokkaido normally supplies 90% or more of the national catch. A research body there now expects this season's northern haul to come in at about half of last year's level. Shops, restaurants and department stores in Tokyo have begun turning to imported salmon and roe, and the shortfall is pushing up prices of traditional New Year dishes.
Data from the Japan Fisheries Research and Education Agency show that 2.39mn salmon were caught in coastal waters and rivers nationwide over the two months, compared with 3.53mn a year earlier, a fall of around 32%. Toyosu Market in Tokyo handled about 130 tonnes of Hokkaido salmon in September, close to half the volume traded a year before.
The Salmon and Freshwater Fisheries Research Institute of the Hokkaido Research Organization projects a Hokkaido catch of 3.64mn fish this season, against 6.86mn last year. Elevated sea temperatures are thought to be among the reasons for the decline.
Marumo Shoten, a seafood seller and distributor in Tokyo's Taito Ward, usually displays whole Hokkaido salmon at its storefront through the winter because they are popular as gifts. Its wholesale cost for the fish has risen by around 40%, and the shop has so far held back from buying.
"I'm wondering whether we should stock whole salmons, as they're so expensive that there's a big risk they remain unsold," the shop's operator said.
Wholesale prices of domestic salmon roe have doubled from a year earlier to JPY30,000 to JPY40,000 ($189 to $253) per kilogramme, so the shop is offering roe from Russia instead.
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